JB655DK5CC General Electric Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Mary from Bolton, MA
- Parts Used:
- WB21X22134
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
When inspecting the back of my oven I noticed the cable had been pushed under (my guess from the mouse I found electrocuted where the power lines come in) and was touching one of the element prongs which burned the covering.
Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.
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- Customer:
- Lawrence from DECATUR, AL
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10029
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
Red Light On
Red Light Off
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- Customer:
- Joseph from LIBERTY HILL, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB21X22134
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Oven in accurate temp too low.
Open the oven , remove one screw holding the sensor remove the sensor and replace the sensor.
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- Customer:
- James from Merrimac, WI
- Parts Used:
- WB24X25013, WB24T10029
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
The back burner was not providing constant temperature...turn it warmer and it got too hot...turn it down and it would be cold.
I viewed the video available through part-select. The most important thing I learned to do was to change one wire at a time instead of removing the old switch completely and then installing the new one. With 5 wires involved, it was really simple to install and not have to remember which wire went where. I was surprised how easy it was and it works wonderfully!
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- Customer:
- Linda from RAPID CITY, SD
- Parts Used:
- WB24X25013
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Burner stayed on high even when set on low.
Replaced infinity switch: unplugged stove;. Removed upper back panel (4 small screws using socket wrench. Appropriate size box wrench would be fine, too); pulled off burner control dial. Removed 2 small screws with phillips screwdriver. From back of stove noted position of infinity switch . Replaced wires, 1 at a time, onto new switch. Pushed new switch
into same position as old switch. Secured with the previously removed screws. Replaced the control dial. Replaced upper back panel of stove.
into same position as old switch. Secured with the previously removed screws. Replaced the control dial. Replaced upper back panel of stove.
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- Customer:
- daniel from ANN ARBOR, MI
- Parts Used:
- WB24X25013
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The double burner would not regulate, stuck on high
Unplug range, pull out to access back panel. Remove enough screws to access the burner switch. Remove knob, 2 screws hold the switch, remove them. You can now pull the switch out the back. It had 2 electrical plugs remove them. Install on new switch and put back together. The switch I got was exact replacement, thanks partselect
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- Customer:
- abbas from redmond, WA
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10029
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
surface burner switch was burned
After receiving the new swith from part select in less than four days with surface mail as they promised, it took me less than five minutes to replace the new swith with the old one. The only tools that I needed were A) a 5/16 nut driver to remove the back panel in order to get an access to the swith.B) a phillips screw driver to remove the swith assembley from the front panel.
I had an estimate from a technician to do the job for 196.27 dollars!!!!!:(:(. I only paid 29.56 Dollars to part select to get this swith, including the shipping.:):):)
I had an estimate from a technician to do the job for 196.27 dollars!!!!!:(:(. I only paid 29.56 Dollars to part select to get this swith, including the shipping.:):):)
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- Customer:
- John from Sandy Hook, CT
- Parts Used:
- WB02X33180
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
One of the drawer supports broke off
I pulled out the drawer and inserted the new support. This one inserts into the back of the drawer as opposed to the sides. I had ordered two of the replacements even though I only needed one and decided to replace both. I think it was a good move as the drawer works better than when we first got it. Just one simple screw made it complete.
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- Customer:
- Russell from Yuma, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WB27X45466
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Oven Wouldn't Heat
Replaced
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- Customer:
- emmett from rocky mount, NC
- Parts Used:
- WB21X22134
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
F2 fault code kept appearing on oven
Removed the oven door and shelves. Moved the oven out from wall, so that I could access the rear panel. Unplugged the oven. Removed the five (5) screws holding the rear panel in place and removed the panel. Disconnected the sensor at the connector. Removed the screw holding the sensor in place inside the oven and removed the sensor. Theaded the sensor wire through the rear of the oven wall. Installed the sensor and screw to hold it in place. Snapped the connector from the sensor to the mating connector at the rear of the oven. Installed the rear panel. Installed the five (5) screws to hold the panel. Plugged the oven back in and slide the oven back to the wall. Installed the oven shelves and the oven door.
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- Customer:
- William from RICHMOND, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10130
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
12" Haliant Element would only work on the outer ring.
Watched repair videos on YouTube to prepare. The repair was very easy.
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- Customer:
- Brian from DOVER, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB17T10011
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Original terminal block plastic shielding melted, protecting appliance when the wires overheated.
Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.
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- Customer:
- Roberto L from LAUREL, MD
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10130
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Inside burner did not heat
Disconnect old burner and reconnect new one
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- Customer:
- Denise from SENECAVILLE, OH
- Parts Used:
- WB30X24111
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Replaced radiant burner element glass top range
First; turn off breaker to stove.
Second; remove two Phillips head screws that hold the top on, located in front, underneath, will have to open the oven door to see.
Third; prop the top up.
Four; disconnect wire clips of old element.
Five; plug in new wire clips of new element.
Six; unprop the top and realign the top.
Seven; replace the two Phillips head screws to secure the top, then close oven door.
Eight; turn breaker back on.
Done and Back in Action! You Can Do This!
Second; remove two Phillips head screws that hold the top on, located in front, underneath, will have to open the oven door to see.
Third; prop the top up.
Four; disconnect wire clips of old element.
Five; plug in new wire clips of new element.
Six; unprop the top and realign the top.
Seven; replace the two Phillips head screws to secure the top, then close oven door.
Eight; turn breaker back on.
Done and Back in Action! You Can Do This!
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- Customer:
- Jim from Williamsburg, VA
- Parts Used:
- WB27X45466
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
oven would not heat
I removed the 4 hex head screws holding the control panel , then the other 4 slotted screws. Disconnected all wires being careful to keep track of the color coding. Had a little trouble with the adhesive holding the face plate( I don't know why they even used it). Put the new panel in and reconnected it. Re set circuit breaker and tried the oven. It still wouldn't heat. it wasn't the control panel, but a burned out wire connecting the element in the back of the oven. Well, anyway I learned how to do the job and the the new panel activates better, so all was not lost.
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