JB258DM1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

On the website, the heating element looked exactly the same with same measurements as the old one. However, the part I received did not match. The screw holes where the element attaches to the back were wider apart and higher. Plus, the leads curved up instead of being straight.

THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT COME IN THE EMAIL ARE VERY GOOD. BE SURE TO TAKE A PICTURE OF THE WIRING.

Remove old stained gasket and replaced with new. Only $57.00!

Opened the box removed old element with socket put new one in tightened and voila ?? Just in time for thanksgiving ??

Removed power plug- disconnected wire, removed cover over wires two screws, and removed old heated strip, held in by two screws inside of oven
Slide in new coil installed two screws, connected two wires replaced guard over wires, plugged in stove, cooked a rubarb pie, success

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. ordered the part and connected the element back to the two wires replaced the two screws plugged in the stove turned on the oven and we were back in business,

First, pulled out the old heating element and all the peices that were left after it fell apart. Since when you pull out the old one, the wires it connects to tend to recess back into the oven wall, I had to pull out the oven and take the back cover off in order to push the wires and connectors back through the receptacle in the oven. This was really easy as you only have to remove 5 screws from the middle panel on the back of the oven rather than the entire oven back. Once the wires were back through, I just plugged in the new unit. The oven works just like new now. I'm sure I was able to save between $75 to $100 just for the service call by doing this myself.

This was simple enough to repair for me, a relative novice. Just remember you need a nut driver to take the back panel off, take a photo of the existing board so you remember which wires go where, and you definitely need a hair dryer to heat up the sticker on the old board so you can remove it and put it on the new board.

PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.

My friend's husband came over to help. I mentioned that after unscrewing the old bake assembly unit, we would have to capture the wires or they would slip into the back. Before he even had the screws undone, the wires did, indeed, slip into the back. He then removed the back panel and retrieved the wires, pushed them back through the insulation and clipped each of them onto the back assembly. However, the wire clips kept slipping off so he eventually had to criimp the clips to keep them tight on the ends of the bake assembly. That troubled me; what if in the future one of those clips comes loose while the oven is in use? Any suggestions on how to keep these connectors on tightly?

I watched a video of a similar model to familiarize myself with the required steps needed. I opened the back and disconnected the power cord and ground wires connected to the removable socket I then removed the lightbulb and removable socket from the oven interior side. I then removed the defective light socket cup and replaced it with the part I purchased. After replacing the removable socket and lightbulb, the bracket holding the light cover functioned perfectly with the new light socket cup. Final steps were to reconnect the power and ground wires to the removable socket. I then replaced the back cover over the light socket cup area. One word of advise. Be very careful when removing and reconnecting the cables to the removable light socket.

I began by turning off the breaker in the panel.
Slide the oven out into the open area.
Removed 3 screws in order to remove rear top panel.
Took 2 pictures of the wiring location on the PCB
Removed all wiring going to the circuit board total of 8.
Removed 4 screws in order to remove bad PCB.
Remove faceplate from bad PCB (you will need to place this faceplate on the new PCB.

To Install.
Reverse steps above

Replaced burned element, did not fix no power problem. Ordered receptor replacement, replaced it, took less than 10 mminutes, but still no power to burned. Then ordered replacement switch, replacement too less than 10 minutes again and burner works fine.

1. Unplug the range power cord from the outlet.
2. Moved range away from the wall and countertop.
3.Using a nut driver removed the 2 screws on each side of the removable panel on the back side of the control knobs and clock.
4. Using a phillips head screwdriver remove 2 screws on top side of the back side panel.
5. Using a nut driver remove 4 screws that secure the main control board in place.
6. Take photo of the wiring on the main control board if not color coded.
7. My control board, and the replacement board were both color coded with the color with the wire placement on the rear of the board.
8. Remove wires with needle nose pliers.
9. Using a hair dryer, heat the plastic control panel face plate that fits onto the front of the old control board.
10.With a putty knife carefully pry the face plate from the old control board.
11. Install the control board face plate onto the new control board.
12. Install the color coded wiring in place on the back side of the control board.
13. Replace the control board into the range, and install screws, and rear panel of the range.
14. Plug cord into outlet and test range for proper operation.

Ordered the part, it arrived and 5 minutes later it a complete installation