RGBS100DM2WW General Electric Range - Instructions

At first I didn't believe it was the igniter due to the fact that it was lighting up, but after reading some of these post, I thought I would give it a try. I accessed the igniter from the broiler drawer after taking out the pans. I removed two bolts with my nut driver and disconnected the wires at the plastic connector after removing the heat shield with a phillips screwdriver (1 screw). I also had to remove a clip to get the wires to pull threw the back of the stove. Here is where the fun began...While waiting on the part to arrive, I decided that it would be a good time to thoroughly clean the entire unit. During this process, I lifted the top of the range to far and cracked both front burner gas lines. After running around town trying to find the gas lines with no luck, I returned home and ordered them from PartSelect as well. The igniter arrived one day and the gas tubes the next. I reassembled the unit and everything works like new, thanks to PartSelect. One other note, when my igniter arrived, It had the exact same electrical plug that my original one had. Some of these post said that you would have to cut the connector off and use the porcelain wire nuts provided. The parts I received were manufacturer parts, no off brand replacements. Again Thank You PartSelect.

matched part needed on web site; took off burner; ordered part; received it on the third day and easily replaced it. Wonderful, easy, and very short delivery time! Thanks.

oven and stove top burners worked fine, but broiler would not light. diagnosed problem as bad igniter. ordered parts on line and received them next day with regular shipping!

removed oven door and bake racks. removed old igniter and snipped wires.

installed new igniter and used ceramic wire nuts to attach wire leads.

reinstalled door and racks.

works fine. who knew home repairs could be so easy and fun!

I removed the oven door, the base panel of the oven and slid out the broiler tray. Next, I pulled the wires out of the access hole in the back of the oven, then diconnected the modular plug and removed the 2 screws fastening the ignitor. I tested the ignitor with my ohm meter and found out that it did not have the necessary zero ohms resistance. The meter indicated an open circuit, so I ordered the replacement part, which was delivered in less than 24 hours. Then I reassembled everything and tried the oven. Works like new again.

I first removed the oven door. I then took out the racks and removed the oven bottom. It slips out easily however, you need to take the door off. The burner cover came next. I used the 3/8 nut driver to remove the four screws. This exposed the burner and electric igniter. Two screws hold the burner tube in place. I recommend removing the burner tube due to the screws holding the ignitor will more than likely need to be cut off. Once the tube is out and you have disconnected the plug for the ignitor you will need to check the voltage at the plug (120 VAC). Place the voltage meter test leads in the oven side of the ignitor plug and set the oven to heat up. If everything is OK the meter should read 120 Volts AC. Turn the oven off and remove the leads. Take the old ignitor off the burner tube and replace it with the new ignitor and plug it back into the oven. Push the plug and wires back into the hole in the burner well and put the burner back in the oven well. Once it is all back in and bolted down try the oven again to verify the ignitor works. Replace the remaining oven parts in reverse order of removal.

I removed the two screws that hold the element in place then I had to splice the wires because the connector was not right and used the two wire nuts that came with the unit .

pop up range top. pull off old burner. put on new one.
close top. check for rocking. install leveling washer. check again. 2nd burner didn't require leveling so it was quicker.

replace igniter

e-mailed my problem and reply was igniter our gas valve took a gamble and ordered the igniter. easy fix. two srews and plug in wires.

I got my part in a couple of days during christmas and still got at pretty quick it was 5 screws unpluged the old one pluged in the new one put screws back and we were ready to cook, did all from inside the oven did not even move the stove very simple!!

This repair was so easy!! I found the part we needed on line with no problem, then I found Parts Select, saved $20.00(honest!) The part was here in 2 days, I bought beer ,called my brother in law and from the call to the oven working was less than an hour. Didn"t break a nail,

Although the original oven design called for a round igniter, the most recent replacement, done by a service mechanic, utilized a flat igniter. I compared the appearance of this flat igniter to the igniters offered by PartSelect and found that the GE igniter (not the Roper which cost twice as much) matched exactly. I installed it and that solved the problem (of insufficient igniter heat to turn on the gas).

Had to use the wire nuts because the plug did not fit.
I used the old plug and spliced the wires.Thanks for the ceramic wire nuts.

I was sure happy that they thought to add in the ceramic wire nuts. This Hotpoint stove had a direct wire, no wire clips like the new part had. I cut the wires and used the enclosed ceramic wire nuts. The stove works great. Parts Select helped in locating the model number which made this transaction a smooth one. Thanks. Always remember to turn off gas line and unplug any item you work on.

Removed oven door and warming tray. Then removed two screws holding the igniter in place. Disconnect the plug visible below the oven after warming tray removal. Installed new igniter in reverse order.