JS660SL2SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Installed the new brackets at the back of the drawer with the 2 screws provided. The new rear mount design is much better than than the old side mount.

Take off 6 screws of back cover of the range, unplug the white wire. Go to the inside of oven, pull out racks. At the top of the oven is your Broiler element, in the center you will see a rod sticking out with one screw holding it in place. Take out screw and pull temperature sensor out toward you. Reverse steps to put it back together.

First unplug range from electrical outlet!
Removed screws under front edge of stove top, propped it open with long paint stick, pried clips off of the element, unplugged and plugged in new element, push element back into clips, closed top on stove, plug back into socket, tested new burner, put screws back in under top front edge of stove top!!!

remove the 4 screw from the back of the control panel take the knob from the front and remove the two screws then raise the rear panel cover up. you can pull the switch from there make picture note of where the plug ups are for replacement its cool

I just removed the drawer and installed the rear supports as instructed on paper included with the part.

This one is simple. unscrew a portion of the door, install the spacer and screw back together. Worked well.

Disconnect plug from outlet from stove.Remove nob from control switch rem 2 small screws to release switch.Go to the back and proceed to rem back panel with 1/4 nut driver.Pull out switch and replace one lead a time.

unscrewed element from back of oven disconnected power source. Replaced new element & screwed new wires onto back of oven. Took 5 mins. Works like new. I am 73 yr old female so anyone can do it!

PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.

THE TWO 8' ROUND HEATING ELEMENT
1. LIFT THE LID OF THE STOVE FROM THE SIDE. SOMETIMES YOU MIGHT HAVE TO PRY IT A LOOSE. BE CAREFUL HOW YOU LIFT IT FROM THE BOTH SIDES WITH A FLAT SCREWDRIVER.
2. BECAREFUL HOW YOU PRY THE WIRING FROM THE OLD HEATING ELEMENT. THE WIRING IS FRAGILE. REMEMBER THE STEPS YOU TOOK TO TAKE A LOOSE THE OLD ONE. I HAD MY SON TO HELP ME BECAUSE I FIRST PULL THE CLAMP BACK WITH THE SCREWDRIVER AND HAD HIM TO HOLD IT TO OLD ONE STILL HOOK UP TO THE WIRING. I PLACE THE NEW ONE IN THE CLIP. THEN I TOOK ONE WIRING AT A TIME TO THE NEW ONE.

I watched a video of a similar model to familiarize myself with the required steps needed. I opened the back and disconnected the power cord and ground wires connected to the removable socket I then removed the lightbulb and removable socket from the oven interior side. I then removed the defective light socket cup and replaced it with the part I purchased. After replacing the removable socket and lightbulb, the bracket holding the light cover functioned perfectly with the new light socket cup. Final steps were to reconnect the power and ground wires to the removable socket. I then replaced the back cover over the light socket cup area. One word of advise. Be very careful when removing and reconnecting the cables to the removable light socket.

Easy

popped the new one on!

I took off the cover of the stove with a socket 1/4 mm, screwdriver and pliers. Now it works perfectly. thanks.../

As many people have encountered, my oven would not heat but the igniter would be bright orange and glow! Over time, the igniter wears and degrades causing oxidation to the surface. This cause the igniter to fail and operate at a lower current level, below 2.8 amps! Normal igniters operator over 3.0 to 3.1 amps. When is happens, a low current igniter does not have enough input to the control valve to tell the valve to open to allow gas to flow over the igniter to light the oven, thus heat the oven! This has got to be the NUMBER one reason for an oven not heating!