J33202 General Electric Range - Instructions

The removal- replacement problem basically involves the shortness of the connector wires to the terminals. Because the burner is close to the top there is little room to use a screwdriver. The old unit used metal screws. The new came with open threaded holes in the terminals with two threaded screws. Used a small 1/4" ratchet which worked OK, but had to carefully bend the ends of the terminals to allow me to lower the element to an angle that would all room for ratchet action. (All design engineers should first have to work in maintenance before going to drawing board!)

S. Cooke, Houston Texas

Removed old, burned out element, and replaced with a new element. The worst part of the entire job was getting the oven door assembled back on to the oven.

removed old element rewired new element,turned back on power

First my husband removed the screws that held the element in place, pulled it partially out and then disconneted the wires. He located the part number that was stampted on the defective element and then I searched the internet for GE parts. I noted the price at GE site and continuted to search. The PartSelect price was about 1/2 of the GE price. We ordered the part, it arrived in two days, and we replaced it in less than 30 minutes. We were very pleased.

First I turned the power to the stove off at the breaker box. Next I removed the two screws holding the old element in place against the back wall of the oven. I gently pulled the element forward. I wound a couple lengths of spare colored wire around the two electrical wires before disconnecting the retainer screws at their connection points. This insured that the electric wires would not fall back inside and behind the firewall. I then disconnected the screws holding the electrical wires to the broiler element. I removed the element from the oven and discarded it. I then connected the screws through wires and the connecting points of the new element. I removed the spare wires hold the electrical wires. I positioned the broiler element in place and screwed in the retainer screws securing it in place. I turned the breaker switch to the "on" position and tested the new broiler element. It tested fine. Job done in 15 to 20 minutes. An able bodied person could do it in less than 10 I'm sure.

The broil element was easy to replace. Start by either unplugging the unit from the wall or turning the circuit breaker off. I started by removing the two screws that hold it in the back. There was a support bar attached to the top with two screws also. After removing all screws, gently pull the element forward exposing the two wires. Make note of which wire goes to which terminal. I also clipped a clothes pin to each wire to prevent them from falling back through the hole. Disconnect the two wires and reconnect to the new element. Reattach all screws and you're done.

The old burner was disconnected by unscrewing the wire connectors. The new burner was installed by reconnecting the same wire connectors although the white and red connectors had to be swapped to make the inner element go on when #2 or med switch is chosen.

Just re-connected the electrical. Was the exact/correct replacement part. Repair successful. Thanks.

I am left handed which sometime presents things in a aweward way. My greatest task was finding the right position and being able to hold the leads while trying to connect them. So I got a pillow and positioned myself and got into the oven and was able to do the job from there. After doing so, it took about 10 minutes to do the replacement.

Asked a local repairman to fix it. I saved money(saved $20.00) by ordering the broiler element from GE part select via customer service agent. The agent was informative and helpful. The part arrived the next day even with regular shipping cost. Impressed with the GE part select. Will use the company again.

Unscrew 4 easy nuts and 1 most difficult nut, gently pull both long and short wires, at this point assure the wife that you did turn off the power.You may wish to attach a cord to short wire as it wants to vanish into the rear bowels of the oven On instruction of the wife clean the oven. Reverse dismantling procedure. Switch oven on. Bask in wives praise.

Even though my sons offered to do the repair, I opted to hire an appliance technician to do it and it took him at least 45 mins. with his experience and tools. apparently the inside wall wires were shorter and more difficult to access and grip and I'm glad I did. It should last another 20 years and I'll be dead!

We unscrewed the element easily enough, but had a hard time disconnecting the prongs. Once we did, we had to use a thin screwdriver to open the clamps to fit the new prongs into them. After all was accomplished and we switched on the breaker the broiler still didn't work. Either we did something wrong or the element wasn't the problem. We haven't decided our next move yet; whether to get a repairman in or buy a new oven. It's a pretty old oven/range.

Broiler element failed catastrophically (with light flashes) while in use (1986 GE self-clean oven/four burner stovetop). Part number embossed on element plate - very difficult to see - took digital photo while still in oven and magnified. Easy to search for part. Good price, prompt delivery. Removal of old and install new awkward because of access angle and my decreasing nimbleness, as well as oven control thermocouple and support bracket in way. But no technical difficulties. Hex head metal screws holding in element; Notched phillips metal screws holding bracing bracket (easier to put element in by removing one side of bracket). Screws difficult to remove as in much used oven 26 years, and thermocouple partially blocking socket ratchet wrench. Would have been easier with 1/4" short extension. Before detaching element, I used twist ties around the leads tied to a large plastic clip so as not to lose them into oven back. PartSelect part was made by GE, not secondary source. Perfect replacement for this old part - still available.

I thought it would be a simple matter of removing the inside glass (4 screws) and replacing the gasket, but it turns out that on this model I had to start on the outside, remove the drawer, then remove the front door cover, then undo a screw which held the inside two-tier glass in place, THEN I could remove the four screws and the interior panel which holds the gasket in place. THIS IS A TWO PERSON JOB unless you choose to use masking tape to hold the exterior door cover in place while removing/replacing the many screws which hold it on. WHILE REPLACING THE INTERIOR COVER WHICH HOLDS THE GASKET IN PLACE, YOU MUST PERIODICALLY STRETCH IT HERE AND THERE TO GET THE "SNAKE" TO EXTEND THE ENTIRE WAY AND TO SEAL TIGHTLY.