JBP35WHW General Electric Range - Instructions

Pulled the range out and unplugged it. Removed the back panel. Removed one wire at a time and plugging it in on the new switch. unscrewed the existing switch from the front panel (Two screws). Screwed the new one in, replaced the panel, plugged in the range and tested it. The new switch was a perfect OEM replacement and worked perfectly.

First turn off the breaker, and test with my milti meter. Raise the top panel where the coils are and prop it open high enough to use a screwdriver to open the front panel.
Then unscrew the three screws on the inside of the top panel, then open the oven door and you will see 4 screws across the bottom of thefront control board panel and two more on each side of the sides of the panel facing straight up. Unscrew those 6 screws and then pull the front control panel forward and out. You might need something or someone to hold the panel, I just let the wires hold the weight, but not highly recommend. Then pull the switch knob off and behind it there are two little bitty screws that hold the switch in place. Unscrew them and pull the switch out of its place. I put the new switch close to the old one and just used the needle nose pliers to unplug one wire at a time and plug it in on the same place as the old one.
Then screw the itty bitty screws in the front that hold the switch in place and put tbe knob back on. Reposition the front panel back into place abs screw in the 9 screws removed for disassembly. Now would be a good time to clean under the burner panel if you haven’t done so yet ( it gets pretty nasty under there). Then put your burner top back down into place and turn your breaker back on. You can either test with your multi meter or like I did, just put the burner on high and watct the coils glow. Such a beautiful sight. Easy fix.

Performed repair using a video for reference.

Pulled stove out and unplugged. At the rear of the range there were 4 faster. Used a nutdriver piece in an electric drill. Pulled off the cover and located the switch. At the front of the stove, I removed the knob and unscrewed two screws releasing the switch. I undid and replaced each wire connector one-by-one to avoid any wrong connections. Replaced and secured the switch and replace the back panel. All secured, power on and fixed! Easy repair, but something that had been put off for a year!
Also follow the installation videos from PartSelect - very helpful!

threw out the old ones and slide in the replacement ones from you.

Simply pulled old gasket from door and pushed new gasket clips into existing holes and tucked in ends at bottom of door.

recieved part the next day. looked different but I followed instructions and the part worked perfect.

Fue muy facil desconectar primero la estufa despues quite los tornillos de la parte superior detras de la estufa, desconecte un cable del switch y lo conecte en el nuevo despues el siguiente hasta conectar todos los cables en el nuevo switch. Lo mejor es desconectar uno por uno para mo mesclar los cables , despues removi el switch de la estufa y puse el nuevo , puse las partes de regreso y listo conecte la estufa t revise si funcionava el quemador y listo sin ningun problema.

It took a bit of head scratching to remove the oven door. I had read another user saying he'd removed the hinge screws unneccessarily, so I left them alone. I eventually was able to locate the locks on each hinge. Once they were disengaged, it was a simple matter to lift off the door. After that, I removed all the screws (except the hinge screws) and took the door apart. Once it was disassembled, I found two loose triangular pieces, about 1 1/2" long. I later discovered these were spacers for the two top srews. They were placed on end, and the top screws passed through them. All in all, a relatively simple repair, which absolutely amazed my wife, landlord, faily, etc.

1st and formost, unplug the range from the outlet or shut th breaker off (Ranges are on a seperate breaker). Detach 2 wires on the back of the range connected to the element. Remove three nut screws inside the oven holding the old element in place . 1 on the top and 2 at the back of the oven. Now just reverse this procedure to install the new element and your all done.

couldn't get exact fit--out of production. mounting bracket at back of range for new element too small. took bracket off old element. cut down bracket on new element with tin snips, drilled holes thru it and old bracket and screwed together. at this point the new element was to long & touched oven door. removed spacers that came with new element (used old support to attached to roof of oven) and pried elements apart (which made element wider & shorter). working good.

My stove didn't seem to be getting enough power for the oven to heat up and the burners to get hot enough. When I checked the connection of the electric cord I found that one of the 3 terminals that the plug connects to was broken off. When the new part came I removed the old part by first disconnecting the 3 wires [black,white(ground),red] and then using a small but long 1/4 socket (that I found at Lowes)I removed the 2 screws that held the old part to the stove and the green screw under it holding the flat copper piece that also connects under the white ground wire of the part. I mounted the new piece on with the 2 1/4 screws. The new part comes with a piece of copper that is for grounding the part to the stove. When I compared it to the old part it was a little different. I first screwed the copper piece onto the stove (under the part) with the green screw then I screwed the white wire over the copper piece to the center terminal(you have to make the hole of the copper piece line up to the screw hole). I connected the other 2 wires and then connected the electric cord to the new terminal block and then put the back cover back on the stove and plugged it in. The clock came on I turned on the four burners they all got hot and red. I turned on the oven the element on the bottom got red I then turned on the broiler the top element got red. My stove is fixed.

First I searched for the part here and I had a slightly hard time finding the correct element on the site.
Then I read the comments of the others and the issues they faced.
I unplugged the range and pulled it out a bit from the wall. I then removed the two screws that hold the element in place and put them where I would not lose them. Then I gently maneuved the element out and placed a clothespin on each of the wires to keep them from going back in and then disconnected the wires from the element using a pair of needlenose pliers.

At this point I had to gently bend the new element back into shape as it had been bent during shipping. Then I connected the wires and slid the element into place and installed the two screws.

Double checked to make sure everything was ok plugged in the range, said a quick prayer and set the temperature to 300. When it got to 300 the element shut off and I was happy that the element did not take any other parts with it.

First I removed the five screws that hold the
element in place and pulled the element out
about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires
and hooked a piece of wire on the leads to make sure they did not fall behind the cabinet.
Then I connected the new element to the lead
wires and removed the piece of wire and secured the new element in place with the mounting screws. Took about 25 minutes to remove and replace.

I knew I had a bad control board. Using the repair videos, replacing this part was very easy to do. While I was at it, I replaced my oven temperature sensor. as well, and even though it wasn't bad, I replaced my oven heating element so that I could get some more mileage out of my 14-year-old range. The issue: after completing my repair actions, my oven element still would not heat. I double-checked my connections and I discovered I hadn't ensured one of the wires on the control board was properly seated. This was one of the wires that go to the heating element. After ensuring proper connection, everything worked perfectly!