JGP336WEDW General Electric Range - Instructions

The top is all glass so I took my time. There was about 12 screws and double sided tape. A lock washer holding the igniter on. It also gave me a chance to clean the hard to get to places. Your price was almost half of what a suppier here and getting it would have been 2 weeks compared to your 48 hours to my door. Thanks again

Real simple to do. Simply remove the two screws holding the bowl and disconnect the electric wire. Obviously first pull the power cord to prevent being shocked.
Re-attach the power cord and and screw the bowl tight. Plug in the power cord.

It was so easy.I removed the old part with the new with pliers. Voila/// it worked.

Easy, just remove two top screws, unplug the igniter wire and then do it in reverse. Your're done in less than 15min.

Removed two screws holding drip bowl in place. Removed spring clip holding igniter to drip bowl and removed igniter. Installed igniter to new drip bowl and installed drip bowl to cook top. Took less than 5 minutes.

Remove grates,pans and disk. Remove allen screws at each burner. Take a flat blade screwdriver and press in on tabs on each side of front of stove to depress keepers and lift top up. Remove wire, and keeper on bottom of electrode. Reverse for install.

i removed the cover over hole that holds the orifice used a 7mm nut driver with butyl rubber tape stuffed inside nut driver, this stuff is sticky and holds orifice in place while positioning over hole.total time about 3 minutes. they worked perfectly.

I ordered the spark module and replaced it which was veru simple, plugged it in and it sparked only now and again. I finally said forget it and it has now stopped sparking but for how long I do not know.

Began by removing the front panel where the range handles are located. There were 7 screws located under the panel which required opening of the oven hood. All of this removal was a waste of time, because the range top was on hindges. The only thing holding ithe range top down was the accumulated grease and oil along the edges. I used a screwdriver to sperate the range panel. There were side supports to hold the the top up, like a car hood support. Replacing the electrode was a snap after that. Overall, it took less than 30 mins but it would have taken less than 10 if I hadn't removed the front panel.

Remove the two phillips screws. Unplug the ignitor. replace the bowl , ignitor and screws..

replaced drip bowl removed 2 screws, removed wire from igniter. and could have used a new gasket but I used some rope caulking to cushion the pan with the glass top which worked very very well.

First off,I was shocked and pleased at how quickly the parts were speed, next day! I did have to return two bowls and order the correct ones only because it was not clear which bowls were needed and the GE manual had no specifications. The small bowl was easy enough to discern, the medium and large were the challenge. The middle opening on both bowls is the same. I failed to notice on the plates and online that the spark emitter, (I do not recall the correct teen), is closer to the middle opening. After receiving the correct bowls, our gas range looks like new.

Removed the bowel screws, unhooked sparker wire, removed old bowels & replaced with new ones, installed bowel seals and screwed back into place.

Ok - I LOVE THIS COMPANY!! When I read the other blogs I was a little confused. Ok first choosing the right drip pan for my gas stovetop was a little confusing because there was a cheaper one that look just like mine. I didn't have the model number - so I WOULD have guessed on it. Later I took my stovetop apart and found model number. Found that MY model required the more expensive drip pans. I think this will help people.... (1) Both type of drip pans looked just alike, but the space between the ignitor and the flame was different. The closer one wouldn't have worked. (2) They were categorized as small medium and large drip pans. BUT - they all had the same dimension: 9 inches. The difference is made in the flame area. My stove top has one small flame area, one large and two mediums, that's how you determine which size you need. (3) The ignitor, when you take it off - nothing shows whether the little white ignitor breaks apart or not, and HOW you get it out. Once you remove the little wire holding it to the drippan, don't try to pull apart the white ignitor, it doesn't come apart. Mine had rusty residue attaached, making it hard to pull through. But when I removed the crusty stuff the white thing popped through the hole. (I called a REP to see if the white thing tore apart or not and they weren't sure. So maybe this will help some other woman who is wondering.) This was ABSOLUTELY the easiest and most cost effective way to have a nearly BRAND NEW stove top. And I'm pleased with myself that I did it without any help.

We unscrewed the old drip pan. Then undid the igniter. Next the seal was put on the new drip pan. The igniter was reattached, the drip pan was screwed in place.