RB525HW General Electric Range - Instructions

I used pliers to remove the hex bolts from the old burner element and pulled out the terminals by hand. I ordered my part and was slightly concerned because the part number was different (this due to my oven being so old I guess). After reading another repair story on this site, when I got my new part, I turned off the electricity to the range at the fuse box vs. unplugging the oven from the wall - because if I had pulled out the oven to access the plug, I would have had to re-caulk along the edges where it connects with my counter tops. I then slid the terminals into the female parts; this was a bit tricky because the female parts had receded behind the insulation in the hole in the back of the oven where they are located. I used small needle-nosed pliers to grab them and pull them forward enough to slide the new terminals in (by hand). I then put in the old hex bolts and used the pliers to tighten them. Flipped the fuse box switch and tried it out - worked great!

1. Open oven door
2. insert oven racks (perfect fit)
3. close oven door. Done and finished - man am I tired

Prior repair job had spliced the terminal block wires with electrical tape; electrical tape caught fire while making pasta.

anyways, disconnect all power, remove burners, pull stove out. you'll need a 1/4" drive socket to get the back cover off; six bolts total. phillips head screw driver to unscrew the terminal blocks; replace with new terminal blocks; it did not seem to matter which wire plugged into the back. put everything back together. very easy.

I pulled off the back panel and the two wires were attached to the back of the know for the burner that did not work. I unhooked the wires, fed the new ones into the same slot and clipped the block in place. That was it!

Unplug the stove. Remover back panel. Remove coil and pan. LIft stove top. Remove screw(s) holding element in place and follow wires to the back of the stove and disconnect. Replace with new kit. Easy.

This is the second time the unit has gone bad. None of the other three burners has ever had the problem.

Thanks for having the part available.

I unhooked the main power cord, unhooked the worn out block terminal cut the tape that was holding all the wires together. Removed the back panel and followed the wires unhooked the 2 wires and installed the new block terminal. Tied all the wires back, attached the back panel and plugged the power cord back into the outlet. i tested the burner to see if it was working. The burner is working great, instructions were easy to follow and my wife is happy. Thank you

After watching the video and ordering the parts and searching for the right size socket (which took most of the time) and finding medical tape as I had no electrical tape I took of the back unhooked the terminals and following the wires to determine which ones needed to be replaced I followed the video instructions on reverse as my son had spliced new terminal blocks into the old wires I taped each new wire to the one it was replacing and pulled it through the back of the stove and into the front attached the new wires to the new block and pushed the clips on the other end of the wires to the knob boxes. I rolled up the excess wire and taped it securely with medical tape so it wouldn't unravel and be in the way when I reattached the back shield on the stove. After I repeated the process for the second terminal (I had two that kept shorting out) I reassembled the stove plugged it back into the wall and used both burners that night to cook dinner! I have had no problems with those burners since then. Really if you watch the video first and follow the instructions you should have no problems. It is really quite simple if someone hasn't tried to repair the problems without replacing the wires. Splicing new blocks into old wires just doesn't work. If I have this problem again, which I hope I don't, I will be confident in my ability to fix the problem myself. Thank you parts select for repair video and the parts.

I followed the instructions on the video, the only thing they left out is where the wires go through to the back of the stove being that there are sharp edges. A role of glass tape would have been handy to replace the old tape. Thanks for asking, I hope this helps someone else.

I UNPLUGGED THE WIRE, ASSEMBLE THE BURNER ELEMENT KITS
LIFTED UP THE SURFACE BURNER PANEL,
OPENED THE BACK RANGE COVER,
UNSCREW THE NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR, DISCONNECT THE REPLACEMENT WIRES ON THE BACK PANEL
TRACE THE NEW WIRES CLIPS TO THE BACK PANEL & TIGHTEN THEM WITH EXISTING NUTS
SCREW THE OTHER ENDS BACK WITH NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR

Pull out wires & replace element by putting wires back in then tighten...done!!!!

Since we got the stove,this is the second time we've repaired these connectors. The first time the connectors came with pre-stripped wires, wire nuts and heat shrink tubing. This set came with pre-attached spade terminals, so I had to crimp the mate to the wires in the stove then put heat shrink tubing on the splices. I also had to bend the part of the connector that mounts onto the stovetop. These had a horizontal tab for the mounting screw rather than the vertical design that our ranges uses. If the connectors designed for the earlier model were available, it would simplify installation since shrink wrap and wire wraps came in that kit and the mounting bracket would fit correctly.

First and foremost I read each of the blogs from your site from other people who have repaired this part. It was great.
First I unplugged the stove. Removed the back plate of the stove by unscrewing 6 screws. Removed the heating element & drip pan. I lifted up the stove top to examine the receptable, and removed the receptable held in place by a single screw using the nutdriver.
Once it was removed, I cut the wires attached to the receptacle with pliers. I screwed on the new receptacle, and taped the new wires to the old ones which led back to the back panel where they were attached to the switch.

By doing so, I was able to easily lead the new wires to the back side of the stove panel. I removed each old terminal wire and replaced it with the new one. (I had read in a previous blog that the polarity of the new wires didn't matter). I replaced the drip pan, and heating element, turned the switch and everything was working just great! I replaced the back panel, and that was it!
As you probably can guess I have never attempted to repair any type of appliance...ever! But your website and the people who shared their stories empowered me to do the job. Thanks so much!

Unplug the range before opening the back panel and removed the wiring connection and replaced with the new one

Move range out from wall,unplug power supply,remove two screws from back wall of lower oven element unplug two wires,discard burned element.Install new element,plug two wires in,fasten two screws. Done

Removed burners and existing drip bowls and installed new drip bowls and existing burners took approximately 15 minutes