JBP25G1R1 General Electric Range - Instructions

took cover off back of stove. Removed two screws and wires that were attached to the element. Removed old element and installed new element. An easy repair.

This range is about 30 years old and I was thrilled to still be able to get the bake element, which burned out about a month ago. I was doing research to buy a new stove when a cousin, from out of town, called to say they were going to visit the following week. No time now to get a new one installed. "partselect.com" was the fastest way. THANK YOU!

First off, I want you to know I'm an obese 56-year female without tools. But, I knew where to borrow those.

I first shut the power off to the range. I then disconnected the 2 screws that hold the element and pulled it out to reveal the 2 screws which connected the wires. I unscrewed those and removed the bake element. I double checked the stove model and bake element part # at the GE website and ordered it from "Partselect.com". It came in about 3 days. I then reversed the order of the above and it was done.

Here are some challenges I encountered..
1) The oven door was in the way making it uncomfortabe to get to the back of the stove.
2) Those $#%& screws are so short I kept dropping them.
3) The wires in the back bend easily. Be careful.

That's about it. It was a pill but not a real problem. It sure beat buying a new range before I've decided on which one to buy.

Unplugged stove, removed front door, carefully removed two screws holding the cover plate of the element. Gently pulled the element out about 3-4 inches removed the two screw attaching the electrical wires to the element , making sure the wires did not pull back into the stove. Removed old element, attached new element to the electrical wires with the new screws received with the new element. Carefully pushed the wires and element back into place making sure the insulation was also in place. Re-attached the cover plate with the two screws I had removed. Plugged the stove back in and tested the element. Replaced the front door .... job complete!

Just wanted to add that the part came in two days, super mailing time, thanks!!

First I turned the Breaker off for the Oven. I removed the two screws that hold the element/cover plate. I pulled the element out to get access to wires attached to element & removed screws holding wires to element. I reversed the process to put back together.

The repair was fairly easy. Removed the 2 screws that hold the plate to the oven and then pulled out the element and loosen up the screws that connect it. Installed the new element and re-attached the element to the plate and secured the plate back to the oven. This site was very easy to use and very helpful and I will use it again if I need another part.

removed the end caps from the stove panel, unscrewed the back, unscrewed the old switch, CAREFULLY noting which wire went to which terminal, removed the wires.
Reversed the process. took a little longer because I felt compelled to do a thorough cleaning while I was there.

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.

First I disconnected the power. Then I removed the burner element and drip pan. Using the screwdriver I removed the single screw that holds the terminal block in place. I then cut the 2 wires to the old terminal block. I connected the wires of the new block to the existing wires using the supplied wire nuts. Next I slipped the supplied heat shrink tubing over the wire nut and wires and using the heat gun I applied heat to the shrink wrap. Finally I reinstalled the new terminal block using the old screw and re-installed the drip pan and burner. I repeated the procedure for 2 other burners that were exhibiting the same problem. All work perfectly.

Easily removed two screws, pulled the wires out of the oven wall, disconnected the old and reconnected the new, pushed it back into the insulation, inserted the screws and tightened them. There was a problem with the model number. It was on a vinyl plate inside the oven drawer wall. The plate was slightly yellowed so I used my finger to wipe the yellow away. When I did, the model number ended up as a black smudge on my finger tip. GE's engineers could have come up with a better method of displaying the model number. GE's customer service operator, however, did an excellent job of helping me to ascertain, at least, some of the number.

remove screws attaching burner plate to back of oven, pull out element, undo wiring to old burner by unscrewing 2 screws, remove old burner, reverse process to put new burner in

I removed the 2 screws and the 2 wires from the broken heating element. I removed the broken oven heating element. Then I attached the 2 wires to the new heating element and put the 2 screws in to attach the new heating element into the oven. The new oven heating element worked just fine and I was done.

First I turned off the circuit breaker leading to the oven. Then I removed the two screws that held the old element in place. I pulled out the element and disconnected the wires. I reconnected the wires to the new element and pushed it back in place. I then secured it with the two screws. I turned the circuit breaker back on and turned on the oven. Works just great!!!

Removed two socket head screws form inside oven rear wall. Pulled element out and disconnected two screws attaching wiring. Replaced with new.

Shut off the power at the circuit breaker, removed the two nuts holding the element to the oven, unscrewed the two screws connected to the wire leads, removed the bad element and reversed the process to replace with the new one.