JGB908CEKC General Electric Range - Instructions

This was relatively easy repair remove the bottom tray of your oven remove the screws from the two guards remove the old ignitor replace and reinstall in reverse

I first removed the oven door. I then took out the racks and removed the oven bottom. It slips out easily however, you need to take the door off. The burner cover came next. I used the 3/8 nut driver to remove the four screws. This exposed the burner and electric igniter. Two screws hold the burner tube in place. I recommend removing the burner tube due to the screws holding the ignitor will more than likely need to be cut off. Once the tube is out and you have disconnected the plug for the ignitor you will need to check the voltage at the plug (120 VAC). Place the voltage meter test leads in the oven side of the ignitor plug and set the oven to heat up. If everything is OK the meter should read 120 Volts AC. Turn the oven off and remove the leads. Take the old ignitor off the burner tube and replace it with the new ignitor and plug it back into the oven. Push the plug and wires back into the hole in the burner well and put the burner back in the oven well. Once it is all back in and bolted down try the oven again to verify the ignitor works. Replace the remaining oven parts in reverse order of removal.

replace igniter

e-mailed my problem and reply was igniter our gas valve took a gamble and ordered the igniter. easy fix. two srews and plug in wires.

I removed the oven door, the base panel of the oven and slid out the broiler tray. Next, I pulled the wires out of the access hole in the back of the oven, then diconnected the modular plug and removed the 2 screws fastening the ignitor. I tested the ignitor with my ohm meter and found out that it did not have the necessary zero ohms resistance. The meter indicated an open circuit, so I ordered the replacement part, which was delivered in less than 24 hours. Then I reassembled everything and tried the oven. Works like new again.

oven and stove top burners worked fine, but broiler would not light. diagnosed problem as bad igniter. ordered parts on line and received them next day with regular shipping!

removed oven door and bake racks. removed old igniter and snipped wires.

installed new igniter and used ceramic wire nuts to attach wire leads.

reinstalled door and racks.

works fine. who knew home repairs could be so easy and fun!

I removed the two screws that hold the element in place then I had to splice the wires because the connector was not right and used the two wire nuts that came with the unit .

At first I didn't believe it was the igniter due to the fact that it was lighting up, but after reading some of these post, I thought I would give it a try. I accessed the igniter from the broiler drawer after taking out the pans. I removed two bolts with my nut driver and disconnected the wires at the plastic connector after removing the heat shield with a phillips screwdriver (1 screw). I also had to remove a clip to get the wires to pull threw the back of the stove. Here is where the fun began...While waiting on the part to arrive, I decided that it would be a good time to thoroughly clean the entire unit. During this process, I lifted the top of the range to far and cracked both front burner gas lines. After running around town trying to find the gas lines with no luck, I returned home and ordered them from PartSelect as well. The igniter arrived one day and the gas tubes the next. I reassembled the unit and everything works like new, thanks to PartSelect. One other note, when my igniter arrived, It had the exact same electrical plug that my original one had. Some of these post said that you would have to cut the connector off and use the porcelain wire nuts provided. The parts I received were manufacturer parts, no off brand replacements. Again Thank You PartSelect.

removed lower broiler pan so i could see burner igniter. removed the heat shield in front of the gas valve. (1 screw). started oven. no response from igniter. no gas flow at all. if igniter is bad it will not allow gas to flow. ordered new igniter from parts select for my oven model. got it in a couple of days. it wasnt exactly the same as the original, but was compatible. it came with its own connector, but didnt fit. i had to cut it off and splice in the original connector. i had to remove the burner tube to remove the original igniter because the wire was routed around and behind the tube. it just took a couple of screws to remove it and it pulls right off. this is all accessible on the top of the broiler drawer. installed the two screws on the new igniter and plugged in the connector. started oven and igniter started glowing bright immediatly. oven burner lit off within a few seconds. everything working like new now.

I have no clue what wire goes where because there is no thing to refer to or instructions of any kind . I have not been able to install the part.

This is a wall mounted oven. Quickly removed the door off hinges (no tools needed). Removed two mounting philips head screws from old igniter. Pulled on wires from the old igniter from back of oven to expose connectors. Disconnected the old igniter. Because the new igniter had a different type of connector, I had to cut connectors off the oven wires as well as the new igniter and use the provided wire nuts. I stuffed the wires back into the back wall of the oven and repositioned the insulation, secured the new igniter and put the door back on. Job done, oven works fine.

First removed 3 screws at burner front and back then pulled out lower storage drawer to disconnect plastic connector, removed and had to cut plastic connectors to use ceramic wire nuts (supplied with parts box) I had to work from underneath stove as well as in the oven it self, if the main door is easily removable it would have helped a great deal but four hours later

Bake ignitor would not glow. Removed racks and lower pan to access the ignitor. Removed two attaching screws and unplugged electrical connector. Installed new ignitor. Hint: Gas will not flow unless both the bake and broil ignitors are operational. Ignitors are interchangable; you can test ignitors by swapping them.

I unplugged the power then removed the shield from in front of the valve location. I removed the wire shield and pulled the wire connector into the burner area. I unplugged the wire then removed the burner frame pulling it out, I removed and re-installed the igniter kit. I also had to cut the connector from the from the old igniter (about 3" up)then remove the connector from the new (cutting flush to that connector) and switched out the connectors using the porcelane wire ties provided with the new unit. I then re-installed the burner frame making certain that the wires were in the proper location. I plugged the connectors together ensuring proper locking, pushed the wires back into the hole, replaced the wire shield and then the valve cover shield. Restored power the igniter lit brightly and approximately 4-5 seconds later the oven burner lit. I checked connector because another person on the site stated that it may be the wrong one and that the wire connectors would be sent in case that were so.

Replaced the igniter. Quite simple.