JBV42G4J1 General Electric Range - Instructions

Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.

First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.

I located and removed 2 sets of hex-head screws under the front lip of the cooktop, then lifted the entire cooktop to access the burner controls. Removed the wires and taped them, and took out the old control after removing 2 phillips head screws. Installed replacement part easily. Only tricky part is that the various shaft adapters don't quite work with my knob. I'll fix it completely with a bit of epoxy and the adapters they sent.

Remove the element and pan. Unscrew the bracket holding the old terminal. The terminal has adequate wire to pull out. Found area where insulation wasn't brittle. Cut old wires and stripped them to expose 1/2 inch of wire. Attached wires from new terminal with wire nuts. Placed heat-shrink tubing over each assembly and shrank it with a heat gun. Retained the bracket from the old terminal, since it looked like it would hold the terminal assembly a bit more firmly than the new bracket. Reassembled in reverse order. Presto -- once again disappointing my wife in her desire for new appliances!

I turned the power off to the stove (very important). then I unplugged the heating element from the terminal. I then unscrewed the terminal from the range top and pulled the terminal through to expose enough wire to do the job. I then proceeded to cut one wire from the old terminal and twist the new wire onto the wire that goes to the switch. Then I capped it off with the electric cap that came with the new terminal. then I covered the exposed wires with the sleeve that came with new terminal. Then I did the same exact thing for the second wire. After that was all done I put everything back together and turned the power back on.

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

Too easy to describe. Just lifted out the old rings and popped in the new ones. PartSelect is my go-to source for appliance parts both for my home and my job as maintenance man for residential group homes in my area. Website is easy to use, prices are good, shipping is always surprisingly fast. Thank you.

After receiving parts, was getting rims unpackaged and removing the old rims, then and installing the new ones. Extremely easy to do. No tools needed

I logged into GE's website, put in my stovetop's requirements for size and type of trim rings, and was taken to partselect's site where I found what I needed. I ordered it and it came in less than a week!

it was hard to figure out the instructions from A switch to B switch to my switch. The first switch was no good the second one was good. prayer book didn't hurt.thank

Took oven door apart to get to gasket. . . Took about an hour or less. Then I basically cleaned the entire over door while I waited for the part to come. When the new gasket came I started to put it back on. I used springed type clothes pins to hold the gasket in place on the middle part of the door which hold the glass. As I put on the out part of the oven door over the middle part of the oven door, I carefully took the pins off as I gradually slipped the 2 parts of oven door back together. After the gaskets were carefully adjusted to it's proper position, then I put the nut screw back in through the gasket holes to hold the 2 oven door parts back together. Then, I finally put the rest of the door back together. This took about an hour also. Not to bad when you have to do this by your selves. This is the second time I've put in a new oven gasket. The oven is 28 years old, so the gaskets last me about 14 years each time. We hope to keep the oven a few more year before we buy a new glass top style stove. Hope this was helpfull to all you diy's !!! Don

This is twin oven range with controls at side of upper oven. Control panel was fastened with screws at top and bottom. Range has built-in hood at top which had to be disassembled to reach top screw. Once had access to top screw, eaisly removed control panel and replaced control. New control had identical connections as old control so only had to install it, break shaft to correct length, and use proper shaft adapter for knob. Remounted control panel and range worked perfectly. This would have been a very quick job except for having to deal with the built-in range hood.

I called the local GE appliance & sales place, informed them that a friend of mine had found the part on Partselect.com, after they told me the part was no longer made, could not be found. My friend that found Partselect was going to install it for me himself but then I decided it might be best to have the dealer do it, in case something went wrong. I can not buy another stove because they no longer make the upper/lower stove like this model, I would have to rip out my cabinets! plus I do not have the money they are asking for a new stove.. Besides the fact that I LIKE this setup! 27 yrs. old, top oven was always 50 degrees off, but I know it, so not a big deal..

Removed the terminal block. Cut the wires. Cut the sheathing to expose the wire. Connected the new wires with the old wires by twisting them together. Added the wire nut and reconnected the block. Tested ok.

Removed 3 lower screws holding the upper oven inside door panel to the door frame. There is enough flexibility in the panel to coax it away from the frame at least an inch. Removed the old nut plate from inside the door and replaced it with the new one. Screwed in the retention pin and 2 washers while holding the nut in place. Assembled the 3 lower screws to complete the assembly.