JBV42G0J1 General Electric Range - Instructions

Good directions

The original controls were different for the small burners and the large burners. The replacement part fits all. Before removing wires, pay attention to writing on new and old control and replace 1 at a time. The hardest part was being sure to cut the knob stem to the correct length. Control works well.

Had one burner that was completely out as the old terminal block had a broken contact. The other burner was intermittent and would arc when heating up. There are several slightly different size terminal blocks. I had a hard time re-inserting one of the old burners into the new terminal block but got it to seat. I put a new burner with the new block on the other one and it fit much better. Additional tools used were a wire stripper and a heat gun for the heat shrink. The stove works great now.

Pulled out the 8 inch surface element and then used a 1/4 inch socket to remove mounting screw for terminal block and pulled out block with attached wires as far as wires would permit. My range top does not lift up so I had to work thru surface opening but there was at least 10 inches of wire to pull out so it was not a problem. Cut existing wires at block, stripped 1/2 inch of insulation using my wire stripper pliers and wrapped wire ends of new terminal block and secured with wire nuts provided. Slipped on shrink insulation provided and applied flame from a hand held butane lighter. The instructional video on the web site was a great help. I may not have done repair without first watchng how easy it is. A cheap wire stripper is a great help. This supplier made it easy to select parts with fast delivery and complete the repair. Great source of appliance parts.

Remove oven door, removed Phillips head screws on perimeter of oven chamber, loosened four or five square head screws to facilitate the removal of the old gasket, (this gave enough room/play to pry the oven chamber slightly) then removed the old gasket, and re-assembled the oven, and replaced the door.

The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.

Simple repair. Easy to do. It was disappointing to receive replacement parts which were not ceramic terminals as depicted and described in words, but plastic and therefore will need to be replaced again soon. In addition the shrink tube was not large enough in diameter to cover the wire nut, both of which were provided with the replacement terminal. Part # PS232646 is not ceramic, but plastic which does not fair well in high heat applications.

1) Took photo of original wiring behind original clock. 2) Marked up wiring instructions for new clock with wire colors. 3) Marked wire colors next to posts on new clock. 4) Removed old clock and its metal mounting bracket. 5) Installed new clock onto old mounting bracket.PROBLEM: The holes in the glass facade of oven are shifted about 1/4" off from the pushbuttons on the new clock. 6) Remove bracket and enlarged holes by 1/4" sideways. This includes shifting the holes for the oven light pushbutton switches, and the four "racetrack" holes where the bracket attaches to the oven. Plug wires into new clock, using extender wires provided as needed. Labelled extender wires with their "colors". POWER UP. The clock works, and the "Timed Bake" works. However, the Self-Cleaning of the oven cannot be started, because the latch level cannot be moved to the right (locked ) position. This leaves us unsatisfied, as restoration of Self-Cleaning was the reason we decided to replace the oven clock.

unplugged and installed

just pulled the old one out and replaced with new one. very easy

In a little over 15 minutes, I was able to pull the element and pan, snip the wires on the terminal block and use the wire nuts to fasten the new terminal block. The shrink wrap tubing went into place easily and all went back together easily. Best of all, the two year problem of a poor element connection was solved in a matter of minutes for a few dollars.

Pull out oven/range unit. Lift range top all the way up. Remove old terminal block. Make electrical connections using supplied wire nuts & heat shrink tubing. Heat shrink. Replace range top. Install coil burner & burner pan as unit. Done.

slid the range away from wall. disconnect power. removed back,compared switches and marked wires.installed new switch and wires.the adapter for the control knob was a problem it left the knob out futher than original i had to modify the plastic adapter and got it close enought! the most time spent was cleaning up the floor before putting the range back.

I read parts select instructions and i was done in less than 30 minutes. Since 1988, this is the 1st. part that I had to replace. I now have parts select on my favorites list.

Hi, Very simple fix.Take out 1 screw & clip wire with snips. Put wires from new unit together & screw on wire nuts. Put shrink tubes on & heat with liter till it shrinks to what you want. A $15.00 fix is better than a $500.00 stove. FIRST STEP TURN OFF THE BREAKER & YOU ARE GOOD TO GO!!!!! Ron