ECBP82WJ2WW General Electric Range - Instructions

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

Ordered the bake element part from partselect.com. When the part arrived I removed the 2 6mm screws from the element, I used two clips to hold the wires in place so that they didn't receed back into the stove. I installed the bake element, installed the two scews ans was done. It took all of 10minutes.

Lily in Florida

The only hard thing was contorting my old beat up body and joints long enuff to reconnect the 2 wires and oven heat sensor and put in 6 screws with a 1/4" nut driver. I did remover the oven door and that made it much easier for me.

Remove two screws hold cook top down: prop it open with piece of wood. (TURN OFF POWER TO RANGE FIRST!). Carefully make diagram of where wires go: remove and replace.. piece of cake!

Easy

The repair was so simple. First i killed the circuit breaker then removed five screws upluged element from contacts and removed the element plugged new element into the contacts popped the screws back and was done.

popped out the remainder of old lens, then pushed in new ones and slipped on plugs.

I too made the mistake of cleaning the oven with the shelves in place. It doesn't really harm them...but they turn a tarnished brown color...they look dirty. These replacement shelves were a perfect match. Pricing was reasonable, communication was terrific and shipping was super fast. Happy camper here :-)

First I cut the circuit at the breaker, and then pulled the range from wall to access the access panel. This top panel was held with 4 screws and removable with a standard phillips head screwdriver.

I then removed the 5 wire-crimped fasteners from the defective surface burner switch. (I first labeled these wires to ensure correct placement to the new switch). There were an additional two screws behind the corresponding knob that needed to be removed in order to completely remove the old switch.

The new switch was installed in reverse order to the steps indicated above (two screws behind knob, 5 wire-crimped fasteners, 4 screws to panel). Range was pushed back into position and breaker turned on.

Installed the new brackets at the back of the drawer with the 2 screws provided. The new rear mount design is much better than than the old side mount.

I had my husband fix it! Very easy for me.

It didn't take him long. The most difficult part was getting to the screws. He had to practically climb into the oven.

The parts were shipped promptly and the whole process was relatively painless!

Gizmo = Bake Element held in place with 2 bolts inside of oven. Removing them only difficult because they are so deep in oven. I did not have the correct size nut driver so I started with my socket wrench then switched to putting the correct size socket on the end of a long screwdriver. After removing the 2 bolts fund element did not slide out easily so went to back of stove and removed a metal protective cover. Found electrical lines secured to the ends of the element. Had someone hold element while I pulled each of the 2 loose - at which time bake element fell loose. Put new one in by reversing the process. That night wife set stove to Clean - and said best it has been cleaned in years.

Unplugged the power supply. Took off the cover on the back of the unit. Unplugged the wires to the broiler element. Removed the bolts(4) holding the element inside the oven. Removed the temprature sensor from element and took it out. Put it all back the way it came out. Worked great. Took 25 minutes.

On the website, the heating element looked exactly the same with same measurements as the old one. However, the part I received did not match. The screw holes where the element attaches to the back were wider apart and higher. Plus, the leads curved up instead of being straight.

Pull out Range and unplug from wall receptacle. Open Range door and remove 2 hex head screws with pliers. Screws located at top inside of range door opening. They hold the burner top in place. Slowly lift front of top burner section up and at same time slightly lifting back of burner section since it rests on 2 pivots. Prop front of burner section open, tilted back, with a piece of 2X4 maybe 2 1/2 ft. long. Make sure the 2X4 is located at the front/middle of range [resting on insulation] and at front middle of burner top to keep it opened firmly and balanced. You have about 5 or 6 wire clips to remove from elec. posts. Use pliers to gently remove clips. Tag the wires with tape to remember which wires go onto the new burner. Or take a close up picture with your phone to remember which wires go where. There are 2 philips head screws holding clips that hold the burner in place. The clips are slipped into a slot to help hold them in place. Mark the 2 slots so that when you remove the clips you will remember which slots to put them back into. You will need to hold the burner with one hand while you are removing the last clip as it could just fall out. Remove old burner and install new burner at same angle as was the old burner. You will have to make sure that the 2 clips are in the slotted openings first as you can not put them in place after the burner is installed in the opening. Reinstall the 2 screws into the 2 clips. Hold the electrical pole fittings with one hand while you gently reattach the electrical clips with a set of pliers. You may need to wiggle the clips back and forth to get them on securely. Remove the 2X4 and gently lower the burner top. The hardest part is now you have to slightly lift the back of the burner top while the front is lifted up and maneuver the back to drop down over the 2 pivots. Then the burner top will drop down in place so that the 2 screws in the range door opening can be reinstalled. I don't know of an easy way of making the top of the burner section fall down over the pivots except trial and error. Maybe use a flashlight to look back where the pivots are located while the top is propped open. That may help you visually to see what you are trying to do.