JBP15CJC General Electric Range - Instructions

Nylon support is attached to the oven frame with a screw having a .25 inch socket head. The screw is mounted in a recessed opening on the support, so a socket is needed. I needed to purchase a proper size socket from the hardware store for a few dollars since the smallest one I had was 7mm. I guessed at the size and was correct. Repair was easy and took a few minutes.

It was as easy as you said. I took the back off, removed the screws holding the terminal, un-hooked it and put the new on on. Replaced the back and wa-la! Working burner

Disconnected power supply to range, pull top back metal cover, pull wires from burner on/off switch,and removed one screw that holds block in place. Installed new terminal block by placing screw back on block & placing wires back on the on/off switch.

Pull out the range. Pull out the electric plug. Unfasten the back panel. Raise the range top. Replace the terminal block in exactly the same position as the old one. Put everything back.

This is the third time I have replaced it so it is very easy now. This time I spent a little more time making sure the burner element prongs were just just like the others. Must have been a little loose in the block.

I have a GE Profile oven and the heating element on the bottom broke in two. I found the part on your website very easily. It was easy to see that I had the correct part. I ordered the new element and it came in about three days. I easily took off the old element, but I was really surprised because the new one didn't fit. The heating element itself was the correct size, but the holes didn't quite match up. As a matter of fact I had to take some tin snips and expand the hole at the back of the oven. That was the only hard part, but it was really difficult to lean in that far without putting too much weight on the door. Anyway, I opened the hole about an inch more, plugged it in, and now it works perfectly!

Since the unit is a drop-in range I had to remove the heat shield/drip plate to thread the wires from the control button to the receptable. The replacement part wires were to short to make the connection so I have to use some of the wiring from the old receptable to make the connection. That is the reason for using the wire cutter and connecters.

I first unpluged the stove then removed the 6" element then I removed the back panel on the stove located the wires that went to that element unplugged them and removed the block then fished the wires through for new terminal block installed in terminal block bracket then pluged in wires put element in place put back panel back in place plugged stove checkout heat on element good to go 20 min

Replacing the Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit was very easy.

1. Pull the stove from the wall a little so you can have space to work. I unplug the stove from lthe 220 outlet. Then remove the Surface Burner element.

2. Then we removed the back pannel from the stove by removing the screws with a nut driver. Only four screws to remove.

3. Once the pannel was removed. I Unpluged the wires from the stove pannel. Being careful not to damage the plug in. There were only two wires to unplug. So trace the wires to make sure you are unpluging the correct one.

4. Lift the top up on the stove and unscrewed the Terminal Block from the top of stove. We only have one screw there.

5. Pull the Terminal Block and wires out and replace with the new Terminal Block, making sure the wires were feed along the side under the top of stove so they can not be damaged. Plug in wires and replace pannel.

Remove the door. Just open a little and pull up. Removed racks. Removed 3 screws with nutdriver. Pulled out housing. Disconnected 2 wires. Assembled new housing with with bulb receptacle and gasket. Reconnected wires and crimped a little to make them snug. Pushed housing back into hole. Put 3 screws back in, inserted bulb and cover. Slid door back on and done. 30 minutes at most.

The wire to the burners were old and needed replacement. When the new terminals arrived, my husband had gone hunting. When the parts arrived, I pulled the stove away from the wall and found the nut driver that I needed. I removed the screw on the terminal box under the burner and realized I had to remove the back panel of the stove. I unplugged the old wires and plugged in the new ones. I installed the new terminal boxes under the burners and plugged the burners back in. My stove works like new and I am thrilled that it was so easy. Thanks

Replace the sucket for the heating element.

I can add nothing to the video you furnished on your website. I am generally all thumbs with home repairs - especially anything electrical - but, your video led me right through it. A good experience. We'll do business again.Thanks.

Oh puhleeze LOL I plugged them in. The only reason I'm even writing this is to let people know how great the service was from Part Select. I putzed around with a major retailer for several hours trying to figure stuff out on their website (and I'm extremely computer literate). Finally I just threw up my hands in defeat, decided to give this a try and in just a matter of minutes my parts were ordered and paid for. So pleased!!

had to pull range away from wall and unplug it so we could get behind to access the rear panel. we then removed old terminal block, by, removing screws from back panel, and one screw from under burner drip pan, inserted, new block, and reassembled. plugged it in to test and burner worked properly.

Turned off circuit breaker, removed screws holding old element in with nut drivers, pulled out old element about 3-4" to reach terminals connected to back of element, removed spade lug terminals with needle nose pliers. Reconnected terminals to new element and screwed new element in place with nut drivers. Turned on circuit breaker and oven. New element works perfectly. Took about 8-10 minutes. Very easy to do.