JK25*R3 General Electric Range - Instructions

The Baking elements takes 10-15 minute each but the Broil Element is a bit tricky as the screws holding the element is difficult to get to. I also used duct tape to temporarily hold the element to stay in place.

First I removed the two screws in the back. then I removed the two screws attached to the brace at the top. pulled the old element out. Removed the screws that attatced the wires to the element. Attached the wires to the new element. Pushed the wires back in. Pushed the element in and attached the screws. Reattached the support. Turned on the broiler. The element smoked for a few seconds before getting red hot. It is working fine.

Ordered Bake Element - 240V from Partselect , when part received removed broken element with a screwdriver., replaced with new Bake Element with a screwdriver. Very easy to do.

Pull the stove out from the wall and unplug. Had to remove back of stove, the aluminum sheilding and the duct work to get at wires use nut driver. Then used nut driver to remove nuts from broiler unit inside stove. Take the front overn dover off first. The new part did not match up with the wires so I used a needle nose to spread the wire clips just a tad so they would fit over the tabs of the broiler unit. Do all of this behind the stove as you do not have eough wire to do this effectively from the oven side. After I had the tabs fitted to the broiler unit. I removed them and fed wires back through the stove. I then went back to the front of the stove and put the broiler back in and put support bar back in to ceiling of stove and the two nuts back on to affix broiler to back of oven. Put the aluminum baccking and duct work back onto the back of the stove and plugged it back in. Pretty easy job.

Our element blew in our oven, we took it out and saw what we needed. It was very easy to see what part we needed to order because of the great pictures on the website. The larger views really helped. We got the part quickly and put it in. It was a breeze and now our oven is working great! The best part however, is it only cost about $33.00 including shipping and handling. Much cheaper than if we would have had someone come in to fix it!

Turned off power at panellboard. Disconnected mounting hardware from inside oven chamber. Pulled failed heating element with wires attached into the oven chamber. Disconnected wiring and reconnected them to the new heating element. Tightened screws while holding connectors with pliers. Applied electrical tape to connections. Pushed wires back into opening and secured heating element back into place. Restored power nad verifed proper operation. The other heater purchased will be used when the bake element finally fails,

(1) Turned off power source.
(2) Removed rust on screw heads before attempting to loosening them up.
(3) Pulled the element out to expose the connections.
(4) Disconnected with phillips screw driver, taped off wires to prevent mixed-up during re-installation.
(5) Re-installed new element using new screws provided.

First, shut off the breaker to the stove. Removed old element by unscrewing the two screws on the plate where the element attached at the bottom of the inside of the oven. The old element was corroded at the connection, so disconnect it, attached the new one, pushed it back in the insulated socket then reattached the two screws on the plate. Flipped the breaker back on. Works great. Only took about 25 min. from start to finish.

Removed the racks, removed two screws holding the element to the back of the oven, removed two screws holding wires to the element, installed by the reverse. BUT in my case the new element still didn't heat. The part was perfect so when the old element melted and shorted, it must have damaged the controlling switch (220V requires dual pole switch--apparently one side is now bad). Since the oven is over 30 yrs old, I'm returning the element and will buy a new oven.

I turned off the breaker to the oven. Removed the old element and replaced. Turned on the oven breaker and turned the over to 350 and it was working great. I was very proud of myself as a 68 year old widow.

USE A MAGNETIZED SCREW DRIVER. BE CAREFUL THE OVEN ELECTRIC WIRES DO NOT FALL BACK INSIDE OF THE OVEN. HAVE LONG NOSE PLIERS HANDY. MAKE SURE YOU TILT THE ELEMENT SO THAT THE ELEMENT TERMINALS ALIGN PROPERLY WITH THE THE SCREWS AND ELECTRIC WIRES. THAT'S IMPORTANT ELSE YOU CANNOT GET THE SCREWS STARTED TO ATTACH THE ELEMENT.

Turned off the power to the oven. Removed the racks. Removed two screws holding the unit to the back of the oven. Removed two screws holding the wires to the terminals. Removed the old unit. Reversed the process. Piece of cake. The only "difficulty" was that the old wire-to-terminal screws required a nut driver (as did the unit-mounting screws) while the new wire-mounting screws required a #2 Phillips screw driver. Took me a couple of minutes to get one of those from the garage.

Note: Please make sure power is off!!! Turn off at the fuse panel,Main. Test oven after you turn off breaker...try turning on oven with normal switch, indicator light should be off. Also check interior light, usually wired 110 volts, may be on a separate circuit, just for safety!!. Remove retaing screws, scewdriver will work , but a nut driver is easier. Pull old element out gently and check between terminals with volt meter. Remove screws on element holding feed wire, reverse this process to install. Test oven for proper operation after installation...make sure oven cycles through a set temperature range.

First I cut the power then I pulled the mounting screws, pulled hte elements out enough to get the screws out and then did it in reverse. Piece of cake.

Two 1/4 inch screws and then two Phillips head screws that was it