JS900SKS General Electric Range - Instructions

I turned off the breaker, removed the control knobs from all of the burners there are plastic knots on each control knob that needs to be removed (once loosened they can easily be turned by hand). You can then just lift the out piece off. You need to remove 4 knots to release the control panel so you can access the control know. I removed the 2 screws in the old control know, there are 4 wires that need to be pulled to disconnect. I wrote down the order in which the colored wires were connected . I then removed the old part and reversed the process

Remove the top back panel to expose the switch. Remove the switch knob & mounting bezel and then unscrew the 2 mounting screws from the front. Replace the wires one by one and follow the enclosed directions in the event that this is an upgrade for an older switch. Remount the switch from the front and replace the back panel.

Removed old switch, put metal jumper from old switch to new one and connected wires to the new one . Reinstalled. Works great.

The cooktop is just set in the counter with no fasteners. I shut off the power and lifted the unit out. Ten small screws held the top to the body. After removal, I took a picture to have a wiring reference. I disconnected five wires with push-on terminals, then removed two Tinnerman nuts with needle-nose pliers. The failed burner was free to remove. There were two mounting ears on the bottom of the burner at positions 12 and 48 as stamped on the bottom. I transferred the mounting ears to the new burner, one screw each. I then positioned the new burner and secured with the two Tinnerman nuts, replaced the five wires, screwed the top back on and slipped the unit into the counter. Done.

Turned power off to oven
Unscrewed broiler nuts (total of 4)
Pulled Broiler out from back of stove
Disconnected wires
Reconnected wire
Remounted broiler and replaced bolts
Turned power back on

Turn off the power to the oven. (There should be a circuit breaker in the main power panel dedicated to just the oven) (the oven should be cool to the touch).
Open and remove the door by pulling it up and off the hinges (this is best accomplished with a helper).
Remove the racks (wire shelves).
Remove the two 1/4" mounting screws that secure the heating element to the back and the two screws that secure the element to the top of the oven..
Gently pull the wires out and disconnect them from the heating element.
Now reverse the process.
Connect the wires to the new heating element in the same fashion as they came off.
Push the wires and heating element back in place and secure with the four screws.
Replace the wire racks (shelves).
Replace the door (again, this is best accomplished with a helper).
Turn the power back on.
Run a test of the broiler to make sure the repair was completed properly.
voila!

Easy

I ordered a new burner assuming As is turns out: nothing wrong with the burner.

turn off the power at the breaker first

remove the 2 screws under the 'lip' of the stove top (open the oven door to get to them)

prop up the stove top on the cardboard box the part came in

pull off the wires one by one and attach to the new burner OR record where each wire goes first

remove the old burner (2 screws) and attach the new burner

screw down the stove top

try the burner - when it does not work flip the power breaker back on and then try again

bask in the joy, admiration and wonder directed your way by various family members

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

As many people have encountered, my oven would not heat but the igniter would be bright orange and glow! Over time, the igniter wears and degrades causing oxidation to the surface. This cause the igniter to fail and operate at a lower current level, below 2.8 amps! Normal igniters operator over 3.0 to 3.1 amps. When is happens, a low current igniter does not have enough input to the control valve to tell the valve to open to allow gas to flow over the igniter to light the oven, thus heat the oven! This has got to be the NUMBER one reason for an oven not heating!

Dear PartSelect:

I am very impressed by your service and company. My order arrived in less than 24 hours. It was a perfect match and is currently in service. I am very satisfied with the entire experience and will use your company again.

I simply opened up the cooktop with a screwdriver and disconnected the wires to the affected burner. After the part arrived, I reconnected them. I had to swap over two brackets from the old burner, so don't throw it away until the new one arrives. It went back together very easily and worked immediately.

Matt Brennan

Locate breaker box and turn off breaker to stove. Removed the two screw in front that hold the top in place. Raised the top and supported it with the box the new burner came in. Removed two screws that held the burner in place and the 5 wires one at a time an installed them on the new burner. Put new burner in place and installed two mounting screws. Reinstalled the two screws in the front to hold the top in place then turned the breaker back on and tested burner. Worked great. Received part in 2 days.

I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections periodically as to avoid another situation like this .

The part arrived much sooner than I anticipated. The job was a little harder and took a little longer for me because I'm not good at repairing things. I usually have to call someone. However, I followed the step by step instructions that were provided both on the website and with the mailed item and had no problems. The instructions were clear and easy to follow. The tools needed were very basic - all of which I had on hand. If I could do it - anyone can.