JTP86BFB General Electric Range - Instructions

Really simple. shut off breakers. checked the breakers were off. then checked again (this is 220V power to the element).
Undid the 2 nuts holding the old element in place. Pulled out the element into the oven space an inch or two.
Used pliers to pull the contacts out from the old element (not by the wires folks). reversed the process and I was done!

Loosen the screws to the bake element. Carefully pull out old element until wires are exposed. Pop off the clips from wires to heating element (leaving clips on the wires). Attach clips to new heating element. Screw back into place. Piece of cake!

Removed three screws from the top front cover and slide it out and following I removed the touch panel and the housing that holds the switches and replaced the bad one.

RE: 2 yr. old GE double wall oven with convection option in upper oven, non-convection in lower oven: baked goods were not browning, were undercooked or burned. Tested both ovens on regular bake setting using 2 oven thermometers. Set ovens for 350. Although after 10 min both ovens beeped "ready", the oven thermometers actually read 200 - then would swing up as high as 500 and as low as 200 during the 20 min test period. Decided to first replace top oven sensor only, just in case it really was a more expensive control panel problem. It was a bit awkward to reach back there with the oven door in the way, but I have long arms! Aimed my flashlight, removed nuts with a socket wrench, pulled out the sensor, popped the clip and the old sensor easily separated from its connection. Snapped on the new sensor, pushed it back in and reset the nuts. Easy. Set the oven for 350 and tested again with 2 oven thermometers for 45 min. Voila! The oven thermometers read exactly 350 when the oven beeped "ready" and it stayed at 350 throughout the entire 45 min retest period with only a 3 degree variation both up and down. What a great improvement! Immediately went online to Parts Select and ordered another sensor for the bottom oven which was having the same problem. Fixed both ovens all for under $30 - and just in time for Christmas cookies! Don't want to know what the repair guy would have charged.......Merry Christmas!

Removed back panel, change out sensor

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

Replaced new light housing.
Thanks to you guys for the prompt response

replaced it with the new one.

Removed element. Ordered new one. Installed it.

The breaker was tripped but fuse was ok on testing. I kept the fuse for possible future repairs. To access door switches and fuse on this model JVM1850CF001, remove 2 phillips screws at top. Then slide the grill to the left (toward hinges) about 1 cm and it should easily come off forwardly. Remove phillips screw underneath grill attaching the main panel. Lift the panel 1 cm and it will easily come off forwardly - I let it hang by the electrical cords. Now you can see/discharge capacitor(s). Remove 2 star screws inside door to loosen/remove/access door switch frame. 3 switches are held in the frame by plastic tabs - one tab per switch. One is primary and 2 are secondary door switches. I removed each switch one at a time by lifting tab, pulled off the electrical connector and filed the male metal connection on each switch. I replaced the switch with a loose button (loose and didn't click as crisply compared to the other switches) with a new secondary door switch. It was the lower secondary switch. Worked like a charm after that.

Turned power off to oven
Unscrewed broiler nuts (total of 4)
Pulled Broiler out from back of stove
Disconnected wires
Reconnected wire
Remounted broiler and replaced bolts
Turned power back on

Turn off the power to the oven. (There should be a circuit breaker in the main power panel dedicated to just the oven) (the oven should be cool to the touch).
Open and remove the door by pulling it up and off the hinges (this is best accomplished with a helper).
Remove the racks (wire shelves).
Remove the two 1/4" mounting screws that secure the heating element to the back and the two screws that secure the element to the top of the oven..
Gently pull the wires out and disconnect them from the heating element.
Now reverse the process.
Connect the wires to the new heating element in the same fashion as they came off.
Push the wires and heating element back in place and secure with the four screws.
Replace the wire racks (shelves).
Replace the door (again, this is best accomplished with a helper).
Turn the power back on.
Run a test of the broiler to make sure the repair was completed properly.
voila!

Removed old element with a socket wrench. Replaced new element with socket wrench. Pretty easy!

Disconnected power, removed two screws from bracket. Unplugged old element, installed new element and replaced screws in bracket. Restored power and back in business!

Unbolted temperature sensor from back of oven. Disconnect cable connector. Replaced and reconnected new sensor and bolted back in place. Haven’t had to replace bake element yet, but it’s a major job being this GE Profile oven has the bake element hidden. That’s a new one on me.