JBS024J2 General Electric Range - Instructions

took cover off back of stove. Removed two screws and wires that were attached to the element. Removed old element and installed new element. An easy repair.

A friend had stopped by and insisted on replacing the heating element on my 32 year old range. It took him all of 45 minutes to replace it, and now it works like a charm.

removed the end caps from the stove panel, unscrewed the back, unscrewed the old switch, CAREFULLY noting which wire went to which terminal, removed the wires.
Reversed the process. took a little longer because I felt compelled to do a thorough cleaning while I was there.

I looked for a new terminal locally, but no one had s terminal that would fit a 40-year old range. I went on line to PartSelect and could not find my model range, so I looked through all the terminals listed on the website (about 500) but found only one that was close to mine. Mounting holes did not match, but it had 3 connectors with 220 capability, so I ordered it. I requested express shipping by UPS and thought I paid for the extra charge. When I got notification of shipment. I saw it was via ground. It went from Louisville to Jacksonville to Clearwater, FL. I ordered it on Thursday night and received it the following Tuesday night. Meanwhile, we had no stove to cook on. When the part came, it took two days to get the contractor back to our condo. He drilled new holes on the mounting box and jerry-rigged the wiring to make it fit. The range is now working, but I was disappointed in the delay in shipping which I agreed to express shipping.

Unplug range from its 220V source. Make sure range is not hot from recent usage. You’ll need a #2 Philips driver, preferably one with 14-18 inch length. The old screws will likely be very stubborn about coming loose. Two of them hold bottom element in. Remove the back panel so access to the two connectors on the bottom element are easily removable. Be very careful not to the let the wire connectors from the heating element drop down into the insulation. For the top element, there are four screws holding it in place, I found it was easier to access these two screws leaning the range backward at a slight angle. Take special care again not to let the wires drop down into the insulation. The connectors to the old element will likely need some extra effort to remove. The reconnection to the new elements should be ok. Make sure all screws go back in that were removed. The new elements will be amazing, and baking and broiling will be like new again.

Using a nut driver, I removed the two screws holding the baking element to the firewall of the oven. I then pulled the baking element out exposing the two wires connected to it. I then used the same nutdriver to remove the nuts and detached the old element. I then connected the new element to the wires, pushed the wires inside the firewall and reattached the element to the firewall of the oven.
The time it took was literally a few minutes. Works like a new oven!

I couldn't find the oven model number so I just looked at the shapes from partselect.com. This would have been fine except I didn't know my Kenmore model had 4" leads so the one I ordered were only 2". I had to return the first element but the process to do this was FAST and EASY. With help I found the model number and had the correct part shipped. It took less than 5 minutes to install. It took longer to mop and clean behind the oven that hadn't seen the light of day in 10 years.

Couldn't be a much simpler repair. You pull the old element off by removing two screws. Then you slide the old element toward you several inches and remove the two screws holding the wires that are attached to the old element. To replace, just do everything in reverse. One cautionary measure, even though the oven is off, there is still a small amount of electricity going to the element. Turn the stove off at the circuit breaker, or unplug the stove before you attempt the repair.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires, then i connect the new element and and replaced the screwes that held it in very simple and I must say Part select was very fast at getting me the correct part the first time , they have earned a spot in my Favorite list

Removed the hinge mounting screw and disconnected the wiring. Hooked up the new element and replaced the mounting screw. A quick and easy $45 repair (part +shipping) that I am quite pleased with. Jim W., Marco Island, FL

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...I copy and pasted this from their example - it really is that easy - this is a simple repair.

replaced burner ( attached wth 2 screws )

Removed two screws and take Element out and put new one in.It is very easy to do.

I removed the oven door and racks. After turning off the power I raised the old element up to be able to access the screws. I undid the two that connected the element to the back of the oven. After pulling the element forward, I undid the two screws that supplied power. I reconnected everything and, after turning the power back on, tested the element. It worked perfectly. It has been used quite extensively since then with no problems.

First I removed two hex nuts holding the element's faceplate to the back of the oven and pulled the entire element straight toward me a couple of inches, pulling the element's ends and connections into view. I unscrewed the two screws holding the element ends to their connections, connected the new element, pushed it back in place, and screwed the faceplate tight again. The most challenging part of the whole process was finding the part number for the GE oven (it's on the frame of the storage drawer underneath the stove).