J4870L2 General Electric Range - Instructions

First turn off breakers. Undo all screws and remove burner. Easy to see how to replace old part with new. Self explanatory if you follow what you have taken apart.

Removed old element, checked continuity and element was bad, Fit new element and everything was good. No problem except my arms were not long enough!! Repairs took about 15 minutes.

TURN OFF POWER , remove oven door & oven wire racks, remove two retaining screws in back of coil and pull the burnt coil foward enough to remove the screws that hold the wires to the coil. You may have to drop one side of the front support bracket to move coil forward.Fasten the new coil to the broiler wires with the new screws provided. Push the new coil back into place being careful not to pinch the wires in the opening. Refasten coil to the oven back with existing screws that you removed. Refasten front support.Put racks back in and put door back on.Easy fix! Easy to order, easy to install and came within days from order date. Very pleased with whole thing.

(Turn off the Power) Pull stove out, remove the 2 screws that holds switch in place, remove one wire at a time and install on new switch. Slip switch in replace 2 screws. Snap off about 3/4 of the shaft cut down plastic insert for knob, install knob turn on power and it works.

Simply removed old and inserted new. No tools necessary.

Turned off the breaker to the range. Turned on range to ensure no electricity was currently flowing to the range. Turned the range off and unscrewed the tilt lock hinge. Pulled the burner out to expose the wires. Popped the snap locks off the cover box and unscrewed the wires connected to the posts. Followed recommend directions to expose approx. 1/2" of new wire (this is what I used the knife for since I did not have a wire stripper available). Slightly cut thumb in the process (no blood, though). Removed old burner. Put new burner in place, re-attached wires to the posts and screwed in to place. Placed cover box back in place and secured using new snap locks. Attached tilt lock hinge using new screw that was provided. Turned breaker back on and turned on range. new burner worked great. Took about 20 minutes total. Wife was extremely impressed, mostly that I didn't electrocute myself. She now wants me to replace other three burners. No good deed goes unpunished.

I read parts select instructions and i was done in less than 30 minutes. Since 1988, this is the 1st. part that I had to replace. I now have parts select on my favorites list.

First I turned the power to the stove off at the breaker box. Next I removed the two screws holding the old element in place against the back wall of the oven. I gently pulled the element forward. I wound a couple lengths of spare colored wire around the two electrical wires before disconnecting the retainer screws at their connection points. This insured that the electric wires would not fall back inside and behind the firewall. I then disconnected the screws holding the electrical wires to the broiler element. I removed the element from the oven and discarded it. I then connected the screws through wires and the connecting points of the new element. I removed the spare wires hold the electrical wires. I positioned the broiler element in place and screwed in the retainer screws securing it in place. I turned the breaker switch to the "on" position and tested the new broiler element. It tested fine. Job done in 15 to 20 minutes. An able bodied person could do it in less than 10 I'm sure.

slid the range away from wall. disconnect power. removed back,compared switches and marked wires.installed new switch and wires.the adapter for the control knob was a problem it left the knob out futher than original i had to modify the plastic adapter and got it close enought! the most time spent was cleaning up the floor before putting the range back.

I diagnosed the problem as a burned out element. Received the part the next day (very quick service) My husband replaced the old element with the new. My broiler still doesn't work. I don't blame the company, my diagnoses was wrong. I have called the appliance repairman and it will probably be an expensive fix.

The original controls were different for the small burners and the large burners. The replacement part fits all. Before removing wires, pay attention to writing on new and old control and replace 1 at a time. The hardest part was being sure to cut the knob stem to the correct length. Control works well.

Good directions

Some times it's not the element at all, as in this case. After rmoving the element I found the wires broke. Fortunatly I had some high temp wire left over from a earlier oven repair. I used butt splices and heat shrink tubing to repair the wires. Then I crimped on a couple of eyelets and fastened things dow.n I received a big kiss form the wife for getting the broiler fixed so fast. Maybe a little extra work, but the rewards were worth it.

Unscrew 4 easy nuts and 1 most difficult nut, gently pull both long and short wires, at this point assure the wife that you did turn off the power.You may wish to attach a cord to short wire as it wants to vanish into the rear bowels of the oven On instruction of the wife clean the oven. Reverse dismantling procedure. Switch oven on. Bask in wives praise.

From inside the oven after turning off the breaker I removed all of the mounting screws with a nutdriver, I removed the wire screws after taping all of the wires together with a small piece of tape to prevent them from falling back into the opening. I installed the wires with the original screws as the provided screws would not fit the holes, tightened them, removed the tape and placed the element back into the opening. I then tightened the hanging brackets, after getting them to align and then tightened the rear mounting bracket. It did help to adjust the baking rack down and leave the baking rack in place to have a place to rest my arms. The install then became a piece of cake!