JB391G4K1 General Electric Range - Instructions

I had already removed the worn out part. The new part came with wire joint covers and connecting them was fine. The brace that came with the part did not actually fit onto the stove burner well; so I cleaned and used the older brace - but, when I went to put it back in place, the bearings on the original self locking bolt were stripped. So, I had to find a replacement bolt with a nut. Found that I had some of those on hand. Once the brace was firmly in place, the rest was easy!

I looked on Youtube for a how to video. It was accurate but the screws in my oven were NOT phillips head screws, they turned out to be sheet metal screws. I used pliers at first which was a PAIN but then I borrowed a socket wrench from the neighbor that was MUCH better!! I had wanted to do it myself to prove to my husband and son that I could but I ended up needing their help because the screws were so tight.... But we did the repair ourselves!!!

Removed 2 nuts holding the baking unit to the oven back, removed 2 nuts holding wires in place, installed new unit following procedure backwards. It takes longer to get the tools,take the oven door off, and take racks out than it does to remove and replace the baking unit.

simple remove the old one, strip old wires to make longer, twist wires together, put on wire nuts.

Took off the door, took out the two screws in the back of the element. Then pulled the element forward, then removed the two wires. Then put it all back together with the new element.

I simply replaced the female part of the plug that the coil plugs in to. I figured this would do the job. I replaced the part,

Unplugged the range, took old elements out, put new ones in. Couldn't have been easier and for the total cost of about $60; I have a working oven again. A LOT cheaper than a new $600 range!!

Turned off power to the oven at the circuit breaker. Pulled the old heating element from the back lower wall of the oven. Noted the position of the wires (right terminal attached to the red wire, left to the black wire). Removed small bolts holding the element to the wires using pliers. Attached the new element using screw driver. New element came with screws, not bolts. Pushed the element back into place and restored power. Tested to make sure everything worked. Everything works and I ran an oven cleaning cycle. Noticed that indicator light above the temperature selctor is always on now even when oven is in the OFF position. Not sure if that's related to the change or to the oven cleaning cycle I ran. In any case, oven seems to work normally.

Piece of cake

Made sure oven was turned off. I used nut driver to remove nuts holding old element to back of oven. gently pulled element out of wall, taking care not to yank because of wires attached to back of element. Made sure oven was off again and then used nut driver to carefully remove wire leads from receptors on element. removed old element from oven and got the new element. carefully used nut driver to attach wire leads to new element. When snugging the bolts to leads, used pliers to keep leads on the element from bending. carefully replaced wires and rear of element into the space behind oven, and used nut driver to attach the back of element to the back of oven. shut oven and turned on to make sure it worked. it did. I was very pleased with my experience with part select dot com, and will be buying another element soon to replace the one in my other oven! Thank you

First I disconnected the power. Then I removed the burner element and drip pan. Using the screwdriver I removed the single screw that holds the terminal block in place. I then cut the 2 wires to the old terminal block. I connected the wires of the new block to the existing wires using the supplied wire nuts. Next I slipped the supplied heat shrink tubing over the wire nut and wires and using the heat gun I applied heat to the shrink wrap. Finally I reinstalled the new terminal block using the old screw and re-installed the drip pan and burner. I repeated the procedure for 2 other burners that were exhibiting the same problem. All work perfectly.

Hi, First unplug appliance ,remove the oven door by pulling it up from the hinges, giving room to work deep inside , remove the two screws that hold the element in place. then pull the element out carefully not to stress the wires and replace the element . Note after all is done test with an oven thermometor :)

PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.

I looked for a new terminal locally, but no one had s terminal that would fit a 40-year old range. I went on line to PartSelect and could not find my model range, so I looked through all the terminals listed on the website (about 500) but found only one that was close to mine. Mounting holes did not match, but it had 3 connectors with 220 capability, so I ordered it. I requested express shipping by UPS and thought I paid for the extra charge. When I got notification of shipment. I saw it was via ground. It went from Louisville to Jacksonville to Clearwater, FL. I ordered it on Thursday night and received it the following Tuesday night. Meanwhile, we had no stove to cook on. When the part came, it took two days to get the contractor back to our condo. He drilled new holes on the mounting box and jerry-rigged the wiring to make it fit. The range is now working, but I was disappointed in the delay in shipping which I agreed to express shipping.

1. Cut power off. 2. Remove old element, make sure you do not lose the screws, pull the connecting posts out and we used strings on posts so they could not get lost in the wall. 3. We then replaced the new element with little of no problems, it took approximately 30-45 minutes for the whole process.