JGB908SELS General Electric Range - Instructions

Replaced the burner and igniter after watching the repair video provided by Partselect. I was pleasantly surprised when the parts came the very next day. It was so easy and the igniter plug matched perfect. My wife wanted to hire a repair man but I did the repair and saved a bundle on the labor. I couldn't be happier about my purchase.

Installation was very quick and simple. Removed wire connector for the igniter then hex screws for the bake tube. Attached the new igniter to the new bake tube and reinstalled in oven. 15 mins. I took the extra time to clean the oven pan and heat shields. Removed old charred baking spills and grease buildup. Oven is 12 years old and working like brand new.

could not even attemt installation due to messed up parts delivery

I removed the bottom drawer, oven racks and bottom cover inside over, removed the screw at the front end of the burner. Unplugged the wire connector for the igniter. Removed the two retaining screws from the burner tube, removed from oven. Removed mounting screws from igniter to use on the new tube and igniter. Wire terminal did not match. Cut wire connector from old igniter, cut wire connector from new igniter. install old connector on new igniter with wire nuts.Install burner tube in oven. Connect igniter connector together. Reinstall over cover and racks. install bottom drawer. Turn on oven. Yah. It works. Their was a hold burned in the old burner tube causing the popping noise and finely not operating. Good to go. Bruce L Best Sr

simply switched out the white plastic knobs for the stainless steel knobs

I merely femoved the existing knobs and replaced them with the new chrome metal knobs.

Replaced the burner knobs with Stainless steel knobs from Parts Select. Very satisfied with my purchase. Easily replaced by removing old knobs and replacing it with the new knobs. No tools needed.

just slipped it in

I ordered the oven rack on a Tuesday and received it the very next day - was wowed at the service.

Pulled off melted knobs and pushed on new knobs. Easy, easy, easy and the knobs appear to be a better qualify than the original knobs. Was very pleased with the parts from PartSelect.

nothing to it.

I simply pulled knobs off and pushed new ones on.

Husband actually did the repair, It went really well except he forgot to remove the heat shield from the old part to attach to the new bottom. (His mistake!)

Removed grill grates, gas distributors, etc. (just lift off). Used star screwdriver to remove screws (3 per burner for SML, 2 for power burner). Lift off stainless cover, which also lifts off the white sparkers I was replacing. Pull them off the wires (didn't need pliers, others said they did). Replace (make sure it is all the way on) and reverse your steps. White sparkers electrodes seemed loose when I put them back on, but tightened up when I fully secured the top back on. Make sure the wires aren't pinched underneath when you put the top back on. Recommended: If you've got one that isn't working, go ahead and replace all 3 (power burner is different) because the part is so cheap you may as well just do it now.

You first must remove the burners on the cooktop to gain access. They are secured with 2 Torx screws which are accesiable after removing the burner covers. The igniters wires must also be removed which simply are push on connections. The cooktop must be removed by inserting a scredriver on each corner of the cooktop from the front. They simply push in and the entire top lifts off. Remove 4 screws covering an access panel located in the front of the cooktop to gain access to the motor/latch, which is secured by two screws accessiable from opening the oven door just below the latch. Replace motor/latch and reassemble. Carefull with the wiring as the replacment switch has been changes. The wires on the left switch of the old assembly get connected to right switch on the new assembly, and the right side wires on the old get connected to left side on the new. Reassemble and Viola!