JGBP30CEHC General Electric Range - Instructions

First I removed the broiler from the bottom of the oven, then pulled the oven way from the wall to unplug it. I then removed the two screws that hold the igniter element in place. Ironically, the plug GE manufactures is reversed so i had to strip the plug and go end and reverse the wires to attach them to the oven. I used ceramic wire attachments as plastic would surely have melted. Replaced the screws, replaced the broilers, plugged it in, replaced against the wall and it fired up.

With the model number I wnet on Parts select site and located the part through the problem finder selection,(GREATFEATURE!) (74% the problem is the Flat Style Oven Igniter) (watched the video on installation and compared my unit with the one in the video). The video explained installation completely and made it very simple. The only critic is that the oven door can be removed completely to make it easier to get in the the oven, opening part way and lifting up the oven door will come completely off. Also the broiler pan drawer can be taken completely out if you would need to get in this way for some reason. Final note: I called the local GE dealer Parts dept- they would have had to order the part anyway and it would have cost three times what Parts Select charged me.Save $$$ great! .

slid the old ones out and slid the new ones in. done

When turning on the oven, I could see the ignitor red hot but it would not ignite the burner. I ordered the pair of new ignitor and burner tube. Upon removal of the burner tube, I saw a large hole in the tube where the center of the ignitor is located, clearly in need of replacement. Unlike some other ovens, the connector on the new ignitor was the exact fit for my oven (Hotpoint RGB745BEA7WH). After access to the tube, the replacement took less than 10 minutes not including watching about 3 youtube videos on how to actually do the replacement prior. You should turn the gas and electric off but ooops, I forgot. I was shocked at how easy this was!

took nut driver to remove the old and replaced with new. simple.

Unplug the range from its wall socket to avoid electric shock. The various range parts that support a pot or frypan are easily lifted off their perches, exposing the small white igniter. The only moderately difficult aspect is wiggling the igniter out of its retainer. The electric wire leading into it then can be pulled out and fed into the new igniter with a push. Replace igniter in its retainer, then replace the range parts you removed to expose the igniter and plug the range back into the wall socket. Piece of cake.

Hired gas company to do repairs for safety reasons

1. Removed oven door..
2. Slide out floor plate of over.
3. Removed four screws securing the flame shield.
4. removed the two screws attaching the heating element to the burner.
5. Pulled heating element wires out of rear hole in oven and detached plug.
6. Attached new element and reassembled in reverse order.

Removed the old glowbar's two screws. Didn't take a mental photo of its proper placcement (or a real one, which would've been smart). Removed screws holding 1) a heat protection plate, and 2) wire harness plate. Installed the new glowbar, hopefully, the right way - with its heat-plate facing the gasline of the over/broiler. Reinstalled the heat protection plate and wire harness plate. Hasn't blown up yet!

I pretty much followed the youtube video posted under the part that I needed. Turned off electricity to that area of the house. Unplugged stove. Took out the old sensor, pushed new sensor cord through the back hole. I did put a small amount of tape,so I could pull it through from the back better. It was impossible to get the clip disconnected in the back and the new clip didn't match up correctly anyway. Ended up having to cut the wires and strip them. I twisted them together and put on the ceramic wire nuts on. Reversed ever thing I did and F3 appeared. Looked that code up on internet. It was from an open or shorted oven. Suggested I check the connections. Pulled stove out again, unscrewed caps on wires and noticed the sensor's wire had another cloth type coating on it. I gentle cut that off, twisted and capped wires again. Plugged in oven, turn on electricity, and tried out stove. Everything is working just fine. Everything took a little longer because this was first time doing this type of repair.

One of the initial two screws for the oven bottom would not budge. Finally used a socket set to loosen it up. Upon taking out the old bottom I turned it over & saw a heat shield attached. I have no idea if you can order a new bottom with a new shield already attached or not, but I had no idea it was there until I took the old part out. Out of the eight screws attaching the shied, four of them were also difficult to loosen up. But in the end the new bottom looks great !

Watched the video on the PartSelect site. Could not have been an easier repair and I saved the cost of a service call - probably saved at least $100 - $150 in service call and I can only guess what the labor cost would have been. Will use this business again for other appliance repairs on my older stove, washer, etc. By the way - the official Kenmore site said this part was no longer made and unavailable --- Thank you PartSelect for having the part and saving me the cost of buying a new stove!

In general, other repair stories on this site collectively give a good description of the repair process. My words concern the decision that has to be made as to which element is bad - igniter or gas valve. To reach a conclusion about this question, I was comforted by the fact that I could measure the AC electric current through the gas valve which then let me decide that my problem was in the igniter. Since the circuit is a simple series with three elements, thermostat, igniter, and valve and the resistance of the valve unit was 1.0 to 1.2 ohms (per GE range equipment instruction which came with the range) by measuring the AC volts across the valve, I found (by dividing the volts AC across the gas valve (2.3 volts) by the resistance of the valve mechanism (1.0 ohms) that my old igniter was only supplying 2.3 AC amperes (instruction sheet states 2.9 amps. is needed to actuate the valve and further while heating of the oven is occurring the valve AC current will raise to 3.2 to 3.6 amps.). At 2.3 amps. the igniter will glow at a yellow color but will not actuate the valve. When you replace the old igniter with a new one you will enjoy to measure voltage across the gas valve once again and discover that the voltage rises to 2.9 volts and that the gas turns on and the heater tube gas is ignited.

I let my brother do the actual installation but it only look about 15 min. I did look at the website of the appliance manufacturer first and then came to this website. The cost of the part I needed was almost half as much as the other site. When I saw that someone with the same oven model number and had the same problem and was able to fix it, I decided to order here. It came quickly and my oven now works.

Removed two screws to remove old bottom. Insert new oven bottom and re-attach screws.