PB975SM2SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Removed back panel, change out sensor

First I found a u-tube video on how to repair this. I found the model number of my stove and used my phone to take a picture of it. I found the part on part select.com and ordered it. It came within a few days.
Turn off electricity to the stove. There were two screws to loosen and allow me to lift the glass stove top. It did not come off and we made a stick to hold it open. Then we unplugged and removed the old burner paying attention what was plug in where, maybe 4 plug ins. Then we clipped it back in, closed the top, rescrewed the top on. Turned on the electricity. It took 10 minutes to replace. Very easy!

Removed old switch, put metal jumper from old switch to new one and connected wires to the new one . Reinstalled. Works great.

First, disconnect electrical power to the stove by turning the main fuse to the off position. Confirm that there is no electrical power in the stove. The ceramic top is held by 10 screws that are closest to the ceramic surface. Other screws hold other parts of the stove and not need to be touched when opening the stove. Once the ceramic surface is off there is access to the burners and the various lights and switches. It is important to determine whether it is the burner that is defective or the switch. Inasmuch as the switch has many moving parts, the switch is more likely to be the defective part. Check the switch by gaining access to the switch connections. There is a metal frame held by two screws on each side in the outside of the stove (same area where the initial 10 screws were removed to separate the ceramic surface). Remove these screws and flip the switch assembly so all the wires and cables are accessible. I checked the switch with a continuity tester and by trial and error determined that there were two connections that in all the remainder three switches had continuity when the switch was in the on position while the suspect switch did not. Replaced the suspect switch by pulling the wires and replacing them in identical positions in the new switch (a smartphone camera became very useful to remind me were exactly each cable's connection was). Restore power by turning the fuse to the on position. Check that the burner lights up. If not, change the burner as well. Same simple procedure of disconnecting and connecting cables to the burner). Make sure to disconnect power before working on the burner. Replace the screws that hold the switch assembly. Replace the ceramic top. Replace the screws. Set stove back in its hole. Reset fuse. Total time: 35 mins. Total cost: Approx $25.00 (switch + delivery). Quoted repair by local appliance repair service: $487.50. No contest. Next project is to fix a leaky water dispenser in the refrigerator.

Prep: You need a 1/4” nut driver to remove the screws in the oven. Approx. $6.00 at the hardware store. Flashlight. Two small chip clips or clothespins.

1. Turn off power at the breaker.
2. Remove oven rack.
3. Use nut driver to remove screws and pull element to expose wires. Attach chip clips to each wire to prevent the wires from slipping behind. Remove old element.
4. Plug in the new element and make sure secure. Turn on breaker to test.

While this was a simple repair, turned out the element was not my problem. I needed a new relay board. The relay board part is not readily available, so you have to dig around the web to find one.

Followed GE repair video

Unbolted temperature sensor from back of oven. Disconnect cable connector. Replaced and reconnected new sensor and bolted back in place. Haven’t had to replace bake element yet, but it’s a major job being this GE Profile oven has the bake element hidden. That’s a new one on me.

Threw the old one out - plugged the new one in. Steak came out just as ordered - medium rare.

The selector knob came as the original that fit execly easy.

Replaced it

Unplugged oven, turned off breaker, took cover off back of oven, removed old sensor by disconnecting in back of oven and undoing screw inside oven. Pulled old one out replaced with new took 15min. Cost me less than $20. Parts Select rocks! Even received part in two days with standard shipping!

Once I opened up the back of the range, the sensor wires where there and burnt just like your info said. One nut to take off in the oven and the sensor came right out and the new one went right in. The oven works great, cooked the turkey today. The worst part of the repare was the cleaning behind and under the range, it hasn't moved since it was put in 6 years ago. Very pleased with PS.

I got someone to look at the stove. They told me what I needed. I looked all over the Internet and couldn't find the part. One guy told me just to buy a new stove top because mine was an antique. It still looked good and two burners were still working. I didn't give up. I found the part on partselect bsite and was thrilled. It shipped fast and was exactly the right part. Now my stove works like new.

A cleaning spray was allowed to caused a short circuit of the infinite control switch. Here is the sequence of a very easy way to repair it: Turn off the power to the unit. Take the bottom metal cover off. You should be able to find the one that was burnt out (my was the bigger surface burner switch). Take photos of how each colored wire are connected ( I used my cell phone). Review the photos!! You will see that the switch has two clamps holding the metal cover to the plastic casing on the sides. Using a narrow screw driver, pop loose the plastic casing from the metal clamps. This way you don't have to take the unit totally apart. The metal casing should be fine. Clean it well, making sure it is dry. Take the new switch and also take the plastic casing from the metal top cover. Replace the metal pin and the plastic casing only. Make sure you line it up the same way with the little blue box in the same orientation. You may not have enough room for your hand and your view. By feel, you should be able to place it there and pop it in. Check the taken photos and connect the wires following the same diagram. Replace back the metal cover. Turn the power on. Enjoy dinner!!! Michael.

Convection fan came loose from the shaft with a lout rattle and grinding as the fan spun down. Had to remove four metal screws to remove the fan cover. Initially tried to just put the nut back on to hold the fan. However, I could not get the nut to start, so I assumed that threads were stripped on the nut or the shaft. Ordered the replacement nut, hoping that it was the nut that was the problem. However, I had the same problem with the new nut. I could see no damage on the shaft. It finally occurred to me that the nut and shaft had left-hand threads (counter-clockwise to tighten). At that point, it was extremely easy to put the nut back on and tighten it. I did not try using the old nut, since I had already received the new one, but I'm certain that if I had come to that realization earlier, I could have saved time and money. So, if you have the same problem, try putting the nut on "backwards."