JAS033H1 General Electric Range - Instructions

followed instruction that came with the parts. Looks great and was easy to install.

Ordered part on Thursday - it arrived the next day -
I repaired the Stovetop burner the following morning.
all went well, even tho I found another element wiring
routing wrong and correct it as well while there. It's
all working well now.

simply lifted the heat coil and slid the rings off and lifted the drip pans off. Vacumed the bottom underneath the old pans. Cleaned the grease off around the stove where the rings sat. Let it dry and added the new rings and pans. Looks like it did 30 years ago.......let them try making a stove last that long today !! Make sure the power is OFF at the electrical box.

We have the original 1970's counter top stove and the elements were breaking!!! My 13 year old son replaced the two elements (I think the process is not that hard to do and I don't know the steps... sorry!) and dad helped him make the drip bowls fit (since we haven't been able to find parts locally!)

I located and removed 2 sets of hex-head screws under the front lip of the cooktop, then lifted the entire cooktop to access the burner controls. Removed the wires and taped them, and took out the old control after removing 2 phillips head screws. Installed replacement part easily. Only tricky part is that the various shaft adapters don't quite work with my knob. I'll fix it completely with a bit of epoxy and the adapters they sent.

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

Easy to do . Four screws,removed cover,removed switch. Installed switch,and cover. Time 1/2 hr.

Took coil mounting assembly off first, then removed or took apart one piece at a time until heater coil was removed. Then installed (with furnished screws)the new coil, following entire process in reverse. 10-15 minutes time.

The repair was straight forward; Loosen the screw at the tilt mechanism allowing the burner element to come off the stove and then unscrew two electrical connectors freeing the burned element. The installation could have been as easy as reversing the procedure however the lugs on the new element were poorly placed making it difficult to attach the two halves of the supplied insulator with the clips that secure the two halves. The insulator required the wires to be bent 90 degrees which further complicated the installation. A dremel and some dielectric grease completed the task to my satisfaction. It should have been a 15 minute job. The new element functions far better that the burned element prior to its demise. I should have changed it long ago. I bought the 8" element as a back-up because this stove has only one large burner. However, given my experience with the improvement of the 6", I'll change it shortly. And knowing I may run into the same installation hiccup, I'll prefit the ceramic insulator.

A simple repair using your quality matched Part turned into a CONDOMINIUM CIRCUS (no fault due to the Part or PartSelect.Com.)

It was the 1st time in over 30 yrs. that we had to throw a Circuit Breaker Switch located outside in the communal large Metal Box between Condos. Not only did it NOT cut the power off our old GE Range - it turned off one neighbor's T.V. & another neighbor's Washer/Dryer Set.

As more Breakers were tried - MORE ANGRY NEIGHBORS ARRIVED ON THE PATIO. To complicate this - the next-door Condo just underwent extensive (read 3 Months) Renovation including REPLACING ALL WIRING..... and you might imagine the rest. No Breaker Switch numbers matched the Condo number written beside them in felt tip pen... it was complete chaos!
THANKS to PartSelect.Com our old G.E. is working again.

Yours truly,

William Rush,

I logged into GE's website, put in my stovetop's requirements for size and type of trim rings, and was taken to partselect's site where I found what I needed. I ordered it and it came in less than a week!

just replaced the old for the new

The replacement was easy: turned off breaker to range; unscrewed element from range top;opened ceramic terminal box; unscrewed element from range wires. Then I simply reversed the procedure, using the new parts. Easy to do and it only took about 10 minutes.

i removed the two screws that hold the element in place. i then pulled the element out and disconnected the two wires. then i connected the two wires and screwed the element back in place and now it works like new.

turn off power at breaker. lift element from stove top lift out drip bowl . remove clips and ceramic cover. unfasten three wires. using new element install three wires to new burner ,clip on ceramic cover then slide burner back in to stove top and install drip bowl turn on power and test