JBS020R3 General Electric Range - Instructions

Removed the burner coil.
Unscrewed the terminal block.
Pulled out the stove and disconnected the 220 Volt service at the plug.
Removed the back panel at the control knobs.
Detached the wiring to the control knob and pulled thru the back panel.
Wiring mostly visable to the front 8 inch burner.
Replaced wiring and mounted new terminal block.
Tested the burner for a few seconds.
Replaced back panel and set stove in place.
Saved $150 dollar service call.

Easiest thing I've done. Shut off breaker. Unplug range. Pull out from wall (because this is a good time to remove the back, clean under and around the unit, check out the insulation and electrical contacts....or skip it, whatever). Open oven. Remove door (while ajar, pull up). Remove racks. Unscrew mounting plate from back interior wall. Set screws aside. Gently pull element forward until the leads and wires come through the insulation. Remove any strands of insulation that stuck to the leads and connectors. Unscrew leads. Keep left wire to the left and right wire to the right. DO NOT CROSS. Set screws aside. Discard old element. (This is a good time to clean your oven, if you haven't in a while.) If you cleaned oven, wait until dry. Position new element, feet down, in bottom of oven. Position left wire on left connector. Screw tightly BUT DO NOT BEND LEAD. IF YOU BEND IT, THEN DO NOT BEND IT BACK. CALL A PROFESSIONAL. Position right wire on right connector. Screw tightly BUT DO NOT BEND. IF YOU BEND IT, THEN DO NOT BEND IT BACK. CALL A PROFESSIONAL. Do not leave screws loose. Connection must be tight. Fire hazard, otherwise. If you bent nothing, then gently push element back through insulation until mounting plate is flush. Screw into position. Replace racks. Replace door. If you decide to check insulation and other leads, now is the time. I checked mine and it's a good thing I did.... Unscrew back plate of oven, keeping screws in order. Remove plate. Check that your new element and insulation aren't bunched up or otherwise in a hazardous state. You may notice burned or greasy insulation. You may see burned leads on light receptacle and broil element. If you do, then replace them, too. When finished with everything, replace back plate. Put range back into position, ensuring level and plumb. Plug in. Turn on breaker. Pat yourself on the back. You just saved $100-$250, depending on where you live.

1. Make sure electricity is off!
2. Remove 2 screws at rear of oven where the bake element is attached.
3. Pull out far enough to remove the 2 screws where the wires attach.
4. Lift out the old element and set the new one in.
5. Reattach the wires.
6. Reattach the element to the rear of the stove.
7. Turn electricity back on.

took the old one out and dropped the new one in, replaced the electric burner and done

thw worse part was paying as much for s&h as i did for the part itself

This appeared to be an easy fix, but turned out to be more involved than I planned. The hard part was pulling the range/microwave oven assembly away from the wall so I could remove the back panel and see how the new terminal block wires connected up to the switch/knob that operates the burner. Extracting the whole range unit required me to use a floor jack to raise the leveling feet of the range above the edge of my floor tile so I could slide the unit out. Once away from the wall, I used a nut driver to remove the back panels. Next surprise was the new terminal block wire connectors were not the same type as the old block's connectors (flat vs. male pin-type). Rather than let the scope of this job creep to include a whole new connector rig, I opted to splice the new terminal block wires onto the existing wires that led up to the control knob. I used professional splices and a crimping tool to secure the wires. After checking the new installation was sound and operational, I slid the whole range back into place. Attaching the new terminal block to the range top was a piece of cake, but getting the damn oven out into open space where I could work on it was bear. But, hey, I learned a few things, one of which is that when a homeowner decides to retile their kitchen, make sure you run the new tiles all the way under the range and not just up to the front edge of the oven. I can see why this was done - to avoid having to remove the oven during the retiling - but it creates an obstacle for whenever the oven needs to be pulled away from its location. The last tool I imagined I would need for this repair was a car jack. The Parts Select part worked fine.

1. Bought replacement part said to replace old switch.
2. Pulled old switch out.
3. Replacement part did not match. Would have to take entire switch panel apart to change to this part.
4. Multiple-part instructions very poor. For my switch unreadable.
5. Old part was "push to turn". New part was not.
6. Knob did not fit new switch. Old shaft was "D" shaped. New is square.
7. Gave up. Need to call repair shop.
8. Hope this helps.

New one a little different ,but it was marked for wiring!
Had to install upside down because wires would not reach right side up!
Had to pull back side of knob out and turn 180 degrees and glue in knob, so knob would be right side up!
Works fine! Now all burners work again!

Simple repair that was complicated by not being able to remove the oven door, leaving a long reach to the element connections in the back of the oven. Other than the accessibility issue, the repair is easy. Remove two scews, pull the element out about 3 inches to access and unscrew the screws holding the wires to the element. Then reverse the process with the new element. But, because of the long reach, there were alot of dropped screws and cussing.

Removed old surface burners and replaced them by plugging in the new surface burners. Now they work GREAT! Parts ordered and received with-in 3 business days. Fed EX delivered parts in good order very quickly. We recommend PartSelect.com

First shut the power to the stove,then had to slide the stove out so I could get at the back to remove the panel screws.Once you have the back off remove the knob on the front.Under the knob is 2 phillips screws that you need to remove.Next I took the new switch and matched up the wires to the old switch.Reinstall is the reverse.Once the switch is in place you must remove the excess shaft to match the length of the old one.This is done with the use of 2 pliers,you grasp the shaft with both pliers and snap it off where you need it.The kit comes with spacers so you have got to match up the right one so the switch is solid on the shaft.This finishes the project,next turn the power back on and check that all is working ok.Job finished.

Replace part an wires

I took out the old broiler support bar, but it was being held by one screw. I did install the new bar with one screw, but I need to obtain a second screw. I still have not located a second screw, but it is inplace.

Partselect made this job a breeze. Due to the user friendly process to order and receive the part. I repaired the stove after turning off the breaker in the main box. There were two screws that held the baking unit in place, removed them and then replaced with new unit.

turn off electricity to stove and simply remove the screws from the heating element and put new element back in place .put screws in and turn power back on and test.

First removed oven door, according to Reader's Digest repair manual, then removed two screws holding element. Pulled element out several inches, then removed one side of bracket holding up front of element so that bad element could be pulled further out. Then disconnected two red wires from one side and two light blue wires from other side. Removed old Element. Attached two light blue wires to one side and two red wires to other pole, inserted element back into rear wall and attached with two screws, Re-attached bracket holding up front of element. Re-installed door. Tested and it worked fine.