JHP65G301 General Electric Range - Instructions

Hi, First unplug appliance ,remove the oven door by pulling it up from the hinges, giving room to work deep inside , remove the two screws that hold the element in place. then pull the element out carefully not to stress the wires and replace the element . Note after all is done test with an oven thermometor :)

removed the end caps from the stove panel, unscrewed the back, unscrewed the old switch, CAREFULLY noting which wire went to which terminal, removed the wires.
Reversed the process. took a little longer because I felt compelled to do a thorough cleaning while I was there.

This range is about 30 years old and I was thrilled to still be able to get the bake element, which burned out about a month ago. I was doing research to buy a new stove when a cousin, from out of town, called to say they were going to visit the following week. No time now to get a new one installed. "partselect.com" was the fastest way. THANK YOU!

First off, I want you to know I'm an obese 56-year female without tools. But, I knew where to borrow those.

I first shut the power off to the range. I then disconnected the 2 screws that hold the element and pulled it out to reveal the 2 screws which connected the wires. I unscrewed those and removed the bake element. I double checked the stove model and bake element part # at the GE website and ordered it from "Partselect.com". It came in about 3 days. I then reversed the order of the above and it was done.

Here are some challenges I encountered..
1) The oven door was in the way making it uncomfortabe to get to the back of the stove.
2) Those $#%& screws are so short I kept dropping them.
3) The wires in the back bend easily. Be careful.

That's about it. It was a pill but not a real problem. It sure beat buying a new range before I've decided on which one to buy.

Pulled range out from the wall. Unplugged cord from outlet. Removed old knob, removed two phillips screws a very top of chrome trim, removed six nut-head screws from back to reveal the switches...removed two set screws from the front at knob base. Visually checked to make sure wiring post of new switch matched the old one. There was enough slack in the wiring to remove one wire at a time and connect it to the new switch in its appropriate place. Put new switch in the panel and secured with the two set screws. Select the bushing that would take up the slack for the old knob to fit on the new switch stem. Held new stem at its base with pliers and used another pair of pliers to snap the stem at appropriate length. (The new stem could not be broken off short enough to have the knob as flush to the panel as the other knobs...this was the only negative factor in the repair) Replaced nut-head screws and phillips screws. I was especially pleased with the quick delivery of the part...even without special shipping rates I received the part in less than 18 hours from the time I ordered it online!

took cover off back of stove. Removed two screws and wires that were attached to the element. Removed old element and installed new element. An easy repair.

1. Cut power off. 2. Remove old element, make sure you do not lose the screws, pull the connecting posts out and we used strings on posts so they could not get lost in the wall. 3. We then replaced the new element with little of no problems, it took approximately 30-45 minutes for the whole process.

When I told my husband I ordered the part and was going to fix it myself, he laughed and said I might not have ordered the right part for the problem and I should just buy a new stove.
The part was delivered the day before Christmas, just 3 days after I placed the order! I had read the stories of others fixing theirs and gave it a shot. It took me longer to find the tools then it did to replace the element!
I took the screws out , pulled the element toward me and disconnected the wires. Put it back the way I found it. Oven heated up in less then 5 minutes!

Very easy repair. 2 hex head screws to take the heating element out. Then 2 more slot head screws for the wire connections. Perfect fit and operation of the new heating element.

The terminal blocks become brittle and carbonized with age resulting in very poor contact with the electric burners. The burners lose capacity to heat fully and eventually stop working.

Unplug the stove first! There is a risk of dangerous electrical shock if the power is not disconnected.

Repair involves removing the burner and the drip cup to expose the terminal block. Remove one screw on top to detach the block from the stove top. Remove the insulating cover and the clip that holds it in place on the back of the block. Detatch the two wires. At this point the age and brittleness of the blocks became apparent as they crumbled in my hand while removing the terminal screws. One screw had several layers of carbonization covering it and required needle nose pliers to get a firm grip in order to loosen it.

Inspect the wires to make sure there are no holes or cracks in the insulation.

Attach the wires to the new terminal block using the new screws provided. The new kit also included quick lock screw fastener clips to place over the holes in the stove top. It's a good idea to use these for more secure mounting and better grounding. Place the new terminal block under the stove top and mount it with the new screw provided. I had to unbend the mounting clip slightly to get it to fit, but it was easy enough to do with bare fingers.

Replace the drip pan and the burner. Plug the stove back in.

A pot of water now boils in under a minute compared to the 5 to 10 minutes it used to take.

I turned off the electricity, unscrewed the old one and disconnected the electric wires, then put the new one in just like the old one. It was very easy and now it works great.

I removed the oven door and racks. After turning off the power I raised the old element up to be able to access the screws. I undid the two that connected the element to the back of the oven. After pulling the element forward, I undid the two screws that supplied power. I reconnected everything and, after turning the power back on, tested the element. It worked perfectly. It has been used quite extensively since then with no problems.

First I removed two hex nuts holding the element's faceplate to the back of the oven and pulled the entire element straight toward me a couple of inches, pulling the element's ends and connections into view. I unscrewed the two screws holding the element ends to their connections, connected the new element, pushed it back in place, and screwed the faceplate tight again. The most challenging part of the whole process was finding the part number for the GE oven (it's on the frame of the storage drawer underneath the stove).

My husband removed the two screws that hold the element in place. He then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. He then removed the old bake unit and replaced it with the new one. He reattached the wires and pushed the element into place. Then he put the two screws back in that hold the element in place.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Removed the element and replaced with the new. Reattaching the wires and securing the new element back in place with the screws provided. Packed well, shipped promptly, installed quickly. Super easy.
Thank you.

super easy - unpluged stove - unscrewed old element w/nutdriver from back of stove. unwired element - discarded. wired new element (2 wires). secured new element to back of stove. pluged stove back in. works great. Ordered part on Sunday, recieved it on Tuesday- VERY NICE SERVICE