JHC56G2D2 General Electric Range - Instructions

The interesting part of this story was troubleshooting the problem. Was it the element or the control? Turns out the element was making poor contact, generating excess heat ,which corroded the element contact generating even more heat, and so on and so on until the termional block eventually broke. The repair itself was simple once I separated the element from the terminal block. After that I removed the terminal block, one screw, removed the connecting wires, two screws, reversed the procedure to install the the new terminal boplck and element. Before the whole process began I made sure to turn the breaker to OFF.

Made sure oven was turned off. I used nut driver to remove nuts holding old element to back of oven. gently pulled element out of wall, taking care not to yank because of wires attached to back of element. Made sure oven was off again and then used nut driver to carefully remove wire leads from receptors on element. removed old element from oven and got the new element. carefully used nut driver to attach wire leads to new element. When snugging the bolts to leads, used pliers to keep leads on the element from bending. carefully replaced wires and rear of element into the space behind oven, and used nut driver to attach the back of element to the back of oven. shut oven and turned on to make sure it worked. it did. I was very pleased with my experience with part select dot com, and will be buying another element soon to replace the one in my other oven! Thank you

The first thing I did wrong was order the wrong part. Then later I did find the Model number on the side of the bottom drawer. I reordered the right part and turned off the electrical breaker. Removed the old element. I then installed the element in the oven with 2 screw nuts and pulled out the stove, took off the back panel and slipped the wire nuts onto the element. Very simple. I am really thankful there is a place to order the part and it came the next day after I ordered it. WHOW!

Using a nut driver, I removed the two screws holding the baking element to the firewall of the oven. I then pulled the baking element out exposing the two wires connected to it. I then used the same nutdriver to remove the nuts and detached the old element. I then connected the new element to the wires, pushed the wires inside the firewall and reattached the element to the firewall of the oven.
The time it took was literally a few minutes. Works like a new oven!

The terminal blocks become brittle and carbonized with age resulting in very poor contact with the electric burners. The burners lose capacity to heat fully and eventually stop working.

Unplug the stove first! There is a risk of dangerous electrical shock if the power is not disconnected.

Repair involves removing the burner and the drip cup to expose the terminal block. Remove one screw on top to detach the block from the stove top. Remove the insulating cover and the clip that holds it in place on the back of the block. Detatch the two wires. At this point the age and brittleness of the blocks became apparent as they crumbled in my hand while removing the terminal screws. One screw had several layers of carbonization covering it and required needle nose pliers to get a firm grip in order to loosen it.

Inspect the wires to make sure there are no holes or cracks in the insulation.

Attach the wires to the new terminal block using the new screws provided. The new kit also included quick lock screw fastener clips to place over the holes in the stove top. It's a good idea to use these for more secure mounting and better grounding. Place the new terminal block under the stove top and mount it with the new screw provided. I had to unbend the mounting clip slightly to get it to fit, but it was easy enough to do with bare fingers.

Replace the drip pan and the burner. Plug the stove back in.

A pot of water now boils in under a minute compared to the 5 to 10 minutes it used to take.

It was so simple, I turned off the breker to the oven, unscrewed two screws holding in the element, pulled out until the wire connetion was exposed. I unscrewed those two screws, then placed the replacement part, put the two screws on, pushed back the wiring and insulation.Final step was screwing two screws to hold the unit to the oven back. So simple! The part was ordered regular mail and still was here in 2 days. Will recommend to friends for sure!

Unscrewed the element from the oven,disconnected the two screws for the electrical and reverse the procedure to install new element. Took all of about 10 minutes.

I couldn't find the oven model number so I just looked at the shapes from partselect.com. This would have been fine except I didn't know my Kenmore model had 4" leads so the one I ordered were only 2". I had to return the first element but the process to do this was FAST and EASY. With help I found the model number and had the correct part shipped. It took less than 5 minutes to install. It took longer to mop and clean behind the oven that hadn't seen the light of day in 10 years.

Very easy and simple/ After making sure power supply was off, removed socket screws in back plate of element, slid old element out, attached new element and replaced/tightened socket screws on plate and new element. Power on, oven on .. heated quickly and nicely. Used oven several times since ... no problems.

Turned off power. Removed old broken one installed new one in minutes. Turned power on and tested it out. If this 60 something lady can do it, you can too.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

Flip the circuit breaker going to oven off, then used a 1/4 inch socket on the mounting flange bolts and the bolt head screws attaching the wires. Then used a flat head screwdriver to reattach the wires with the supplied screws and bolted the new element in place. Back to the circuit breaker flipped the switch and turned the oven on to test it, and now works fine. *be sure to remove the sticker before installation, use rubbing alcohol to remove any residue.*

Very easy repair. 2 hex head screws to take the heating element out. Then 2 more slot head screws for the wire connections. Perfect fit and operation of the new heating element.

Snapped in place (4)

At 76 I no longer do my repairs so I asked my daughter's friend to do it for me.