JBP60BY3WH General Electric Range - Instructions

I disassembled parts and panels from the oven door as needed to remove the handle end caps. It was not clear to me what the best disassembly method was, because I used a different method when assessing the problem as when I performed the actual part replacement. The quickest way is to take the top two screws on the inside oven panel loose, but leave them in their retainers. Remove the side trim screws on the plastic upper side pieces. Remove the four sheet metal screws on the bottom of the door, located the far right and left (two on each side). Carefully split the inner and outer oven panels to access the mounting screws for the oven handle. Replace the oven handle and reverse the disassembly process.

The only problem was m short arm and no good flash lights around

It took longer to get the new element out of the box than it did to install it. I removed the two screws with a 1/4" nutdriver, pulled the element out roughly three inches, unplugged the connectors and discarded the old element. I did the reverse to install the new element.

Removed two screws, pulled old element forward 2 inches, removed two wires. Pulled old element out of oven. Put new element in oven, attached two wires, pushed element all the way in, put two screws in and tightened them. Turned oven on to test new element. Element worked. Project completed.

I took a chance and guessed that the problem was the element, as opposed to a thermostat or other part that may have failed. (Oven was made in the 70's) I entered the data for this old oven on the PartSelect.com website and it came up with a part for me to order. When I received the replacement element, I noticed that it was not "exactly" the same shape as the old part, but the dimensions were correct and it fit into the space on the bottom of the oven without any problems. The dimensions of the connectors were pretty close to exactly the same as the old element, and the screw holes in the mounting plate lined up perfectly with the corresponding threaded holes in the back wall of the oven - it took me less than 15 minutes to install the part and the oven appears to be working perfectly again.

removed old handles and slid door apart align new handles and re-installed new handles. One person job.

Unplug the old one and plug in the new one. Nice and easy.

Required new light lens for oven this type has five (5) of them; only the oven temp light lens was damaged. Ordered from Parts Select.com received item fast in seven days. removed rear guard plate, than oven temperture switch than slid the neon light switch off of the light lens.Lens is removed from the front panel. Installation is reverse order.

I disconnected the power to the stove and it was very simple, undid the nuts with socket wrench pulled element out and diconnected the wires.I put the new element back in the same way the old one was removed .I am a 70 year old woman.The great part was the element was shipped out vey quickly! great service

This is twin oven range with controls at side of upper oven. Control panel was fastened with screws at top and bottom. Range has built-in hood at top which had to be disassembled to reach top screw. Once had access to top screw, eaisly removed control panel and replaced control. New control had identical connections as old control so only had to install it, break shaft to correct length, and use proper shaft adapter for knob. Remounted control panel and range worked perfectly. This would have been a very quick job except for having to deal with the built-in range hood.

I ordered the part on a Monday and Tuesday afternoon I received it! I went a route I often take first. I read the instructions of others before starting my job and opened the top of the range. There are two screws under the range top in front near the oven door, one on either side, that must be removed. After this I opened the top of the range and positioned a piece of 2X2 about 20 inches long at an angle to hold the top up while I worked on the burner. I then used my phone to take a close up picture of the old burner while in place in my range so I could refer to it when putting the new one in place. I then took a pair of needle nose pliers and pulled off the wiring, then removed lock washers under the burner and removed the old burner, being careful not to lose the washers and springs. I took the new burner and layed it along side the old one to see exactly how it would be placed under the glass cover. I replace the springs and lock washers then referred to my photo and replace all the wires to the burner as they had been. Then lowered the top in place and put the screws back in place. That was it. I'm a 67 year old female, if I can do this, anyone can!

I simply removed the 2 anchor screws in front of the stove and wrote down the wiring order on the instillation diagram, removed the old burner, removed the two studs, made sure they were installed on the right numbers place them in the new burner, wired the new burner, placed the springs respectively. Placed them in the correct holes in the frame to be sure that the burner was aligned properly. Put the washers on the studs and replaced the frame screws, lowered the cook top and returned the screws to lock the cook top in place.

After watching the demonstration on YOU TUBE by two separate persons, , I felt I could accomplish this repair job by myself. After all, if a 9 months pregnant lady on YOU TUBE can do it in 15 minutes then so could I. However, my particular stove turned out to be a bit more involved, and different than those whose demonstrations I had viewed! .. First turn off your electrical power at the circuit breaker. There is no need to unplug the stove, just test by turning it on and observing if the display is lit or the burners come on. If it doesn't then you are good to start the repair with the power off. 1) Open the oven door, then bend over and check underneath. There are two screws one on each side at the front. Using an 8 mm socket wrench undo those screws and put them in a safe place where they wont roll away. 2) I would suggest using an old towel or an old sheet once you have the stove top lifted to cover your work surface, so if you drop any little parts that might roll away, you will be able to just pick them up without a problem. Next you will need something to prop the stove top open or someone to hold it for you. I used the box that my new element came in and that worked well. 3) Here's where my stove differed.. I had a metal retaining bar across the two front elements holding them up in place. .. I unscrewed the two small screws that held it in place at the edge of the stove. (I just did it on the side where I was replacing the element). This does not release your element just the bar so you can get access to the element. 4) Next, using your pliers you will see a couple of round washers that have teeth, these are holding a spring in place on a metal peg, this keeps the element from falling or moving out of position.. It was a bit difficult releasing the washers but I eventually did it, with my pliers, and then had to straighten the washers out for use afterwards 5) Once the washers are off, this frees the spring and allows the element to be removed. from the bar. 6)Next, I recommend taking a picture of the wiring, so you will know what goes to where. There are four wires on the old element, so I just followed the color coded placement and fasten them in the same place onto the new element. The wires are a bit stiff to remove, and if you are using pliers be careful as they are fragile and could break. 6) When I removed my GE replacement element from the packaging, it turned out to be a little different, and did not have the two metal pegs on it. In order to make it fit so I could do the repair. I unscrewed the two pegs from the old element, then counting around the outside holes on the new element to get them in the exact same place, I then attempted to screw them in.. This was the difficult part as they did not easily fit, and I had to ream out the holes to get the posts to screw into the new element. 6) Once that was done, the rest is easy just putting it back together the same way you took it apart. With the pegs screwed in place and the four wiring clips put on the new element, then it should not take long to complete. Next fit the spring over the metal peg first, then put the peg through the hole on the retaining bar. Make sure you get them lined up in the correct position. If you don't then they will be out of alignment with the Ring marking on the glass surface. Check this before you get it all put back together. The retaining bar has four holes in it, so you will see what I mean. The metal pegs on my element went into two opposing holes. Once that is done, the spring goes over the peg, then the peg goes into the retaining bar, and lastly, the small round washer fits the bottom of the peg to keep the spring held tight and the element in place on the metal retaining bar. You are almost done. Next simply put the retaining bar back up, make sure your element lines up on the top of your stove in the position it was before, then put the two small screws

Good directions

The original controls were different for the small burners and the large burners. The replacement part fits all. Before removing wires, pay attention to writing on new and old control and replace 1 at a time. The hardest part was being sure to cut the knob stem to the correct length. Control works well.