J350*03 General Electric Range - Instructions

Pulled range out from the wall. Unplugged cord from outlet. Removed old knob, removed two phillips screws a very top of chrome trim, removed six nut-head screws from back to reveal the switches...removed two set screws from the front at knob base. Visually checked to make sure wiring post of new switch matched the old one. There was enough slack in the wiring to remove one wire at a time and connect it to the new switch in its appropriate place. Put new switch in the panel and secured with the two set screws. Select the bushing that would take up the slack for the old knob to fit on the new switch stem. Held new stem at its base with pliers and used another pair of pliers to snap the stem at appropriate length. (The new stem could not be broken off short enough to have the knob as flush to the panel as the other knobs...this was the only negative factor in the repair) Replaced nut-head screws and phillips screws. I was especially pleased with the quick delivery of the part...even without special shipping rates I received the part in less than 18 hours from the time I ordered it online!

removed the end caps from the stove panel, unscrewed the back, unscrewed the old switch, CAREFULLY noting which wire went to which terminal, removed the wires.
Reversed the process. took a little longer because I felt compelled to do a thorough cleaning while I was there.

Unplugged Stove, pulled away from wall. With smaller wrenches, took the two screw-nuts off the inside back and above that hold the broiler element in place. Since it is an older stove...took the back panel off the stove with philips screw-driver which consisted of 10 screws. Once that was removed was able to unscrew the broiler element from the two wires that provide the electricity. Used the flash light when I had to unfasten the screw-nuts inside the stove because kitchen lighting wasn't strong enough.

The customer service at PartSelect.com is wonderful. They assisted me to located a part for a 40 year old oven. Took only a few minutes to take the old one out and put the new one in. Process was pretty self explanitory.

Replacing the part was fairly simple. Do not forget to dis-connect the element from the back.

removed 2 nuts holding the element in the oven. removed 2 screws that secured the wires to the element. installed the new element in reverse.

turn off breaker in electrical panel....remove stove socket from outlet....remove rear panel from stove....undo wire connectios from broiler element....inside the oven, gently move thermostat wire out of the way....unbolt broiler plate from rear wall....remove broiler hanger and then broiler element....reverse procedure and you're all set.

I followed the easy instructions and everything went well. I had the new switch installed in about 30 minutes. My wires were different colors than on the instructions but it was still easy to figure out where the wires went on the new switch. Just do not be in a hurry and make sure you measure before you break off the extension bar. My knob fit on the new switch without any of the parts that came with the switch.

First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.

Turned power off to oven. Unscrewed back plate exposing wires connected to heating element. It was difficult to unscrew the connections between them as it was hard to reach in because the oven door was in the way, but i finally succeeded. Unscrewed the bracket holding the burned out element and then attached the wires to the new element. Attached the bracket and I turned on the power. I then tested the oven and it worked.

Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.

followed instruction that came with the parts. Looks great and was easy to install.

The removal- replacement problem basically involves the shortness of the connector wires to the terminals. Because the burner is close to the top there is little room to use a screwdriver. The old unit used metal screws. The new came with open threaded holes in the terminals with two threaded screws. Used a small 1/4" ratchet which worked OK, but had to carefully bend the ends of the terminals to allow me to lower the element to an angle that would all room for ratchet action. (All design engineers should first have to work in maintenance before going to drawing board!)

S. Cooke, Houston Texas

Replaced damaged element exercising the care suggested in repair comments by previous customers. Old unit had screws connecting the broiler element to the stove's electrical supply wires, which were difficult to remove due to old age. Just took a little extra care to ensure that supply wires were not damaged during disconnect and after reconnecting the new element the broiler tested OK. It is once again broiling steak to perfection

less than 15 minutes R2 the part, ops ck'd good. 4ea 1/4" screw/nuts, they didn't fight me...