JGBS23SEMS General Electric Range - Instructions

1. Pull the oven out to access the connector in the back of the oven near the bottom center to disconnect the connector to the ignitor. Then push the connector and wire through the hole in the back of the oven.
2. Removed the broiler drawer to access the ignitor.
3. Removed the two screws holding ignitor to the burner bar, then pull wire the remaining way through the rear hole.
4. Installed the new part with the two screws to the burner bar.
5. Insert the wires with connector througth the hole in the rear of the oven to reconnect to the plug at the back outside of the oven Reconnect the connector at the back of the oven.
6. Push the oven back in place and it is ready to use.

Removed the two screws put the heat shield off the old one onto the new one put new bottom in and tightened two screws. Done #38. 69 Cost of part with shipping cost included.

openend stove top disconnected wire pushed out old sparker inserted new one closed lid game over

My Hotpoint gas oven became extremely hot after using it . Only after unplugging the electrical cord, turned it off. Replacing the control valve (thermostat) solved the problem. The stove top had to be pried up with a flat screw driver then propped up. Prying off the oven control valve revealed two mounting screws (philips head). Next remove thermostat sensor bulb inside oven at back wall. Remove old thermostat control and bulb assembly. Installation is reverse order of disassembly.

1. Moved oven from the wall.
2. Unplugged the stove from the electrical outlet.
3. Removed over racks and bottom panel.
4. Located wires leading from the igniter in the back of the stove.
5. Disconnected the wires from the ignitor.
6. Used socket set to remove screws from ignitor.
7. Cut connector plug from new ignitor.
8. Stripped about a half inch of insulation from wires of new ignitor to be able to connect it to stove.
9. Carefully handled new ignitor and screwed it into place.
10. Attached wires of new ignitor using new caps.
11. Put bottom panel and racks into place.
12. Plugged oven into electrical outlet - Oven ignited and made a good dinner.

This repair was fairly simple, just took the door off, then the 2 screws in the back, lift the bottom out. then remove shield to valve unplug the old igniter. then put it all back in reverse order. it worked great.

The R&R of the defective thermostat was at first look relatively simple. The job was made more complicated because in order to remove the old thermostat and then route the new thermostat across the top of the stove, under the burners, and down through a small hole into the oven space I had to remove the whole top of the stove. This process is not hard, just time consuming. Be very careful of razor sharp edges, they make you bleed. The final calibration of the oven is an easy adjustment in the oven knob. All in all it was an good experience.



Lyle Nelson

I was very pleased with how quickly the new oven rack arrived and it was a perfect fit. Thanks.

first i removed the screws that held the element and put the other one on. still would not heat . so i took the back of stove ,sides of stove loose to trace wires and under the top of stove i found a wire that comes from oven switch had been bitten into by a mouse wire nutted and electrical taped the wire back togeather and it workes fine . keep in mind there are 3 thinge that could be wrong. it goes from the switch, to the gas valve in broialer to the igniter switch,gas,fire .

I removed all the burner heads with a torx driver & released the top of the stove by pushing in two clips with a screwdriver. I raised the top and located the thermostat as it fed through back of stove, then tied a line to the old thermostat to be used to pull the new one through. This did not work, so I removed a cover on the back of stove to provide more room & spread insulation apart so i could see hole. I was able to easily feed new thermostat through hole and reassemble.

I removed the whole burner (3 screws) and the igniter (2 screws). IGNITER comes from Mfg. boxed with wrong plug on igniter - however they supply two porclean nuts so that the wires can be cut and joined. I recommend that you use the plug off the old igniter and splice it to the new part, so that it will plug into the stove's existing plug

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

First I removed the oven door handle from the inside by removing the 2 screws. The screws have standard hex heads. You need to be careful you don't strip them. Once you remove the 2 screws for the handle the outside frame for the door will come away from the oven. You then need to remove the frame by unscrewing 2 screws at both the bottom left and bottom right corners of the door. Once you remove these, the exterior door frame will come away from the oven. The replacement glass actually sits on the outside of the frame. You simple need to slide it up into the top edge of frame. There are little grooves that hold it at the top. Once you have it in place, slide the bottom edge of the glass into the grooves on the bottom of the front door. Replace the 2 screws at the bottom right and left corner and then tighten the screws for the handle on the inside of the oven door and you're done. Pretty simple really.

Repair was quite easy. Remove four screws and lay back sheet metal panel. Transfer wires from one module to the other and then put new module in place. replaced the sheetmetal panel. Spark now presen at all burners. One small thing worth mentioning. Each burner has a gas distrubution cap and that cap has a small hole to the spark cavity. One of these was pluged with grease and that kept the burner from lighting until this hole was cleared.

Take out inside of oven.Igniter is held on with 2screws and electrical clip.take off old one and put on new one.