JBP26WY5 General Electric Range - Instructions

part arrived very quickly. removed the rear cover. removed the old control unit. installed the new(retro fit) unit using the supplied wiring sheet diagram. The whole operation took about 30 minutes. Works great. Thanks PartSelect.

pulled my range out and cleaned the sides!!removed the screws...pulled out the element....re-connected the wires and reattached the element...HEY it actually Worked...I installed it during commercials!and I am 75!!everything was great and you delivered it by UPS in 2 days!

Disconnect power. . . Remove control panel, pull wire connectors,[note location] remove old switch, install new, install wires, snip stem to length, set knob . . . Turn on power - works. [Note this is a live part even when not connected]

No repair necessary, but the service was excellent!

I lifted out the burners and took out the old drip pans ans then replaced the burners. However the 8 inch pans were bigger than the old ones and they do not fit properly. They are sitting on top of the stove and not inserted like they should be. I will have to look elsewhere to find ones that fit.

The initial symptom involved the heating elements turning off and on rapidly once high temperatures were reached. After cycling power to the range this went away for a few weeks. When the symptom reappeared, it involved the oven-on light turning on and off, even when the oven control was in the off position. This persisted after a power-cycle so I decided to replace the control board. The actual repair was quite easy. The hardest part was removing the sheet with the button labels from the old unit (I ended up inserting a knife and twisting it to separate the adhesive, which is only around the edges) and fixing it to the new unit in the proper position. The latter would have been much easier if I had realized up front that there are handy guide ridges against which to align it! Like another person whose repair story I read, the existing wire colors were not all an exact match. However each connector's function was clearly labeled on the PCB of the old board, so I had no trouble matching them up (line voltage was red, not black, and broil was blue, not purple). The only other difficulty I encountered was that the old yellow bake wire had a plastic guard on the connector and this did not fit in the appropriate hole on the new unit. I merely pried the guard off with a small screwdriver and used the bare spade-connector, which fit in the hole nicely. There was a small amount of exposed wire left, so i wrapped it in electrical tape although I doubt that was necessary.

took the old one out and dropped the new one in, replaced the electric burner and done

thw worse part was paying as much for s&h as i did for the part itself

the first end cap broke when I tried to tighten the screws, the end cap holes were too small, Thirty some dollars down the drain. Drilled out the second end cap before I tighten the screws, worked fine. Make sure you drill out the holes of the end caps or they will split out and you lose your money. There are no warnings about this problem.

1. Bought replacement part said to replace old switch.
2. Pulled old switch out.
3. Replacement part did not match. Would have to take entire switch panel apart to change to this part.
4. Multiple-part instructions very poor. For my switch unreadable.
5. Old part was "push to turn". New part was not.
6. Knob did not fit new switch. Old shaft was "D" shaped. New is square.
7. Gave up. Need to call repair shop.
8. Hope this helps.

First shut the power to the stove,then had to slide the stove out so I could get at the back to remove the panel screws.Once you have the back off remove the knob on the front.Under the knob is 2 phillips screws that you need to remove.Next I took the new switch and matched up the wires to the old switch.Reinstall is the reverse.Once the switch is in place you must remove the excess shaft to match the length of the old one.This is done with the use of 2 pliers,you grasp the shaft with both pliers and snap it off where you need it.The kit comes with spacers so you have got to match up the right one so the switch is solid on the shaft.This finishes the project,next turn the power back on and check that all is working ok.Job finished.

I removed the back to gain access to the control board. Then I unplugged each wire on the old control and plugged it in on the new control - one at a time. Then removed the old control, removed the face from the old control and put it on the new one. Next I installed the new control and replaced the back. Job completed - oven works great.

Replace part an wires

Removed old surface burners and replaced them by plugging in the new surface burners. Now they work GREAT! Parts ordered and received with-in 3 business days. Fed EX delivered parts in good order very quickly. We recommend PartSelect.com

New one a little different ,but it was marked for wiring!
Had to install upside down because wires would not reach right side up!
Had to pull back side of knob out and turn 180 degrees and glue in knob, so knob would be right side up!
Works fine! Now all burners work again!

1. Unplug the stove!!!
(I zapped myself forgetting this important step, lol)
2. Unscrew two screws at the back where the element is inserted.
3. Use plier to remove the clips which connect the wire and match the proper wire with the same side of new element
4. Push element back in place and screw the clips back in place.
Easy!