JBP22408 General Electric Range - Instructions

I removed the unit easily with anut driver, however the unit also supported the thermo-link. I had to use the hack saw to relieve a small opening for the thermo-link to pass through. No real problem. Then a few holes to be drilled to attach the 'link' to the base of the broiler unit.

BUT-I went into the website listed on the box. GEAppliances.com Guess what? Their price was twice yours!!

Just lifted the electric components Remove drip plans and trim rings and replaced with new drip pans and trim. Your company was incredible in there delivery of the parts..One day. You made my husbands very happy.

the replacement items fit really good. It was a matter of remove and replace,

First I turned the breaker off the Range. Second I removed the two screws that held the element inplace. Then I pulled element front until I could get to the two screw which connected the wires and removed then. Removed old Bake element. Installed new element by connecting the two wires and then pushed the element into place and secured it by reinstalling the two screws. Turned the breaker back on and tested. This is a very easy item to replace and takes very little time.

Ordered new burner and drip pan. New parts arrived within 3 days. Removed screw holding the hinge, removed clips from porcelain insulator, removed old burner, then installed new burner, reinstalled tilt lock hinge, replaced drip pan and ring and set burner in place. The whole installation took less than 10 minutes, and it works perfectly.

Turned off power to the oven at the circuit breaker. Pulled the old heating element from the back lower wall of the oven. Noted the position of the wires (right terminal attached to the red wire, left to the black wire). Removed small bolts holding the element to the wires using pliers. Attached the new element using screw driver. New element came with screws, not bolts. Pushed the element back into place and restored power. Tested to make sure everything worked. Everything works and I ran an oven cleaning cycle. Noticed that indicator light above the temperature selctor is always on now even when oven is in the OFF position. Not sure if that's related to the change or to the oven cleaning cycle I ran. In any case, oven seems to work normally.

Took off the door, took out the two screws in the back of the element. Then pulled the element forward, then removed the two wires. Then put it all back together with the new element.

Unplugged the range, took old elements out, put new ones in. Couldn't have been easier and for the total cost of about $60; I have a working oven again. A LOT cheaper than a new $600 range!!

Hi, First unplug appliance ,remove the oven door by pulling it up from the hinges, giving room to work deep inside , remove the two screws that hold the element in place. then pull the element out carefully not to stress the wires and replace the element . Note after all is done test with an oven thermometor :)

1. Cut power off. 2. Remove old element, make sure you do not lose the screws, pull the connecting posts out and we used strings on posts so they could not get lost in the wall. 3. We then replaced the new element with little of no problems, it took approximately 30-45 minutes for the whole process.

This range is about 30 years old and I was thrilled to still be able to get the bake element, which burned out about a month ago. I was doing research to buy a new stove when a cousin, from out of town, called to say they were going to visit the following week. No time now to get a new one installed. "partselect.com" was the fastest way. THANK YOU!

First off, I want you to know I'm an obese 56-year female without tools. But, I knew where to borrow those.

I first shut the power off to the range. I then disconnected the 2 screws that hold the element and pulled it out to reveal the 2 screws which connected the wires. I unscrewed those and removed the bake element. I double checked the stove model and bake element part # at the GE website and ordered it from "Partselect.com". It came in about 3 days. I then reversed the order of the above and it was done.

Here are some challenges I encountered..
1) The oven door was in the way making it uncomfortabe to get to the back of the stove.
2) Those $#%& screws are so short I kept dropping them.
3) The wires in the back bend easily. Be careful.

That's about it. It was a pill but not a real problem. It sure beat buying a new range before I've decided on which one to buy.

took cover off back of stove. Removed two screws and wires that were attached to the element. Removed old element and installed new element. An easy repair.

At 76 I no longer do my repairs so I asked my daughter's friend to do it for me.

First shut off power to the range in the electrical
breaker box (its the 220 breaker) as marked.
Remove the oven door ( open part way and lift up) the
door will come off.
Remove the 2 screws that the element is attached to the
back of the oven wall. Pull element out part way and
disconnect the 2 wires. Take out element.
The new element had different connections so I cut off
the clips stripped the wires and attached to the element
connection . The element had connections that this was
possible. Push wires back into oven wall and install the
new element with the 2 screws that were removed. You
could also put on clips to the 2 wires that attach to the
element if so desired. (Eye hole clips.)

First I made sure the electricity was off. Then, I flipped the burner up, and loosened the screwon the hinge. This allowed the burner to extend onto the cook surface. After loosening the clips holding the ceramic insulator together, the wires to the element were exposed. The wires were then transferred to the new burner element from their corresponding position on the old one. The new ceramic insulator was affixed over the wire with clips, and the hinge reattached. The chrome ring was worked over the burner, and the burner reseated in its proper cook poistion. Testing confirmed the burner to now work as new.