JBP45AGS1 General Electric Range - Instructions

First I removed the two screws that held the element in place. I pulled the element out about 2-3 inches and then removed the two screws that fastened to the ends of the element. Was careful to keep the same wires separate in order to fasten the new element back to the same two wires. When fastening the new element ends back to the wires, care must be taken to not bend the ends of the element when tightening the small screws to the ends. Everything went real good and am most pleased with the very fast service portrayed by Parts Select. They are a class act company and rate very high in customer satisfaction!

1. Removed the back panel.
2. Disconnected the wires from the old switch while connecting wires to the new switch one at a time.
3. Installed the new switch and broke off the excess metal on the post which fits into the burner knob on front of the range.
4. Replaced the burner knob and replaced the back panel.

Successful repair to Our GE range, manufactured prior to 1965 (when installed in house). Pulled range from wall, unplugged, removed burned-out broiler element. Previous check with GE to make cross reference of range part number to Part-select part number for this nearly 50-year-old range. Obtained new part and installed. Works. Range has self-cleaning oven, accidentally destroyed thermal switch attached to element mounting bracket, difficulty with frozen mounting nut. Self-cleaning still works; thermal switch locks out a solenoid which defeats door latch; prevents premature opening of oven door when oven too hot to open safely. Internet search did not find GE part but there are generic devices of the same type available; will consider installation later.

After ordering the proper part with the help of the phone customer service tech, I moved the stove from the wall, unclipped the connector, removed the two screws holding the sensor in place, and removed it. Reversed the above to put it back, and the oven holds perfect temperature.

Easiest repair I ever did. Killed the circuit breaker, then removed the oven door, loosened the 2 hex nuts with a nut driver, pulled the old element out a few inches, loosened the nuts holding the wire to the element. I then put the new element in place, connected the wires to the element, pushed it back in to the insulation, and then replaced the nuts on the cover piece. Put the circuit breaker back on, and done!

1] removed door and put it on bench
2] removed two[2] screws to open up face of door
3] wedged aa 2" x 4" between face of door and back of door
4] used nut-driver to remove the damaged end-cap [this part holds the stove handle in place]
5] put handle on one side to good end-cap and slipped new end-cap on handle and put it opening where old end-cap came off
6]screwed in new part and screwed together face and back of oven door
7] put door back on oven

Removed sensor from back wall of oven by removing 2 screws from flange. I could not pull the wire-nut connections out through the small hole and thought I would have to pull the whole oven out of the wall to acess the connections from the back so instead I clipped the wires close to the old sensor and connected the new sensor with the small wire nuts provided, then enlarged the hole in the oven wall, being careful not to pinch the wires then pushed the wire nuts and extra wire back through the hole and put the screws back in the flange.

I have a 22 year old GE double oven with a range top that I can't live without. I do alot of cooking, baking, and my share of entertaining. To replace this oven I would have to sacrifice having 2 ovens...or remodel my kitchen and reposition their location. So when something goes wrong with this oven I cringe. It needs to keep ticking for another 10 years. A friend recommended PartSelect. looked on line and found the part resembling mine. I called just to confirm the part was correct, and found out it was not. I looked up the part number the said was correct but the shape was wrong. I order it anyhow and when it arrived it was what I needed. The picture on the website was inconsistant with the part number. So I'm really glad I called and spoke to a rep. The part arrived in 4 days and the next day I installed it, needing only one tool. Doing it myself saved me a few hundred dollars and my oven works great again. And their price was lower than a local parts dealer. I added PartSelect to my favorite list for future needs! Thanks!

First turned off the circuit breaker. The two screws holding the element in place were removed. Next the element was pulled out about 3 inches. Wires were disconnected. Old element was removed. Wires were then attached to the new replacement element. The element was then re-attached to back of oven, using the two screws. Circuit breaker turned to on. About 5 minutes. Took longer to change the flashlight batteries!

Removed screws in door and pulled apart inside and outside, broken plastic pieces fell everywhere. Removed interior screws that held the end caps for the handle. Put the new end caps and handle together, placed on door and screwed in the interior screws to hold handle. Pushed inside and outside of door together and replaced screws. It appears that there were spaces on those screws that correctly placed the inside and outside which were broken to shreds. I could not find those on the the parts list so the door is not as good as it should be.

Moved stove from wall, unplug the stove from the wall outlet, remove the oven racks, unscrew the plate against the oven wall supporting the element with a small adjustable wrench, pull out the element slowly without tearing the insulation & stretching the two wires, unscrew with a phillips screwdriver each wire with care, as a precautionary measurement: do not make contact with the other wire and any other part of the stove, even though it was still unpluged. Install the new element in reverse procedure...turn on Bake Element on low temperature..when it glows when hot..ready to go.

Pull the stove out from the wall and unplug. Had to remove back of stove, the aluminum sheilding and the duct work to get at wires use nut driver. Then used nut driver to remove nuts from broiler unit inside stove. Take the front overn dover off first. The new part did not match up with the wires so I used a needle nose to spread the wire clips just a tad so they would fit over the tabs of the broiler unit. Do all of this behind the stove as you do not have eough wire to do this effectively from the oven side. After I had the tabs fitted to the broiler unit. I removed them and fed wires back through the stove. I then went back to the front of the stove and put the broiler back in and put support bar back in to ceiling of stove and the two nuts back on to affix broiler to back of oven. Put the aluminum baccking and duct work back onto the back of the stove and plugged it back in. Pretty easy job.

First I removed the two screws in the back. then I removed the two screws attached to the brace at the top. pulled the old element out. Removed the screws that attatced the wires to the element. Attached the wires to the new element. Pushed the wires back in. Pushed the element in and attached the screws. Reattached the support. Turned on the broiler. The element smoked for a few seconds before getting red hot. It is working fine.

Ever the optimist, I'd replaced the burner on this relic of another time to no effect. That left the switch. You guys should know that when a burner element goes bad it can take out the switch. I should have put a meter on it. Wehn I looked for a replacement a few months ago there were still factory parts available, but they were $80 or so and I wasn't inclined to risk that on a 40 year old range. I offered to replace the raange for my daughter as a Christmas present but she like this old thing. It was an unusual size with a pan storage compartment on the left. I went on line and found this universal replacement for about $25 delivered. What the heck. I ordered it and it arrived within a week. I pulled the stove out, killed the breaker, pulled the knob off, used a nut driver to take ther rear panel off, two phillips screws under the knob hold the switch in. The terminals on the old switch are in a slightly different order but are clearly marked L1, L2, H1, H2 and P. The P is the power and has a smaller terminal so you can't put it on the wrong one. Just examine the old switch ( it was marked the same way) take off the L1 and put in on the L1 of the new switch and so on, make sure you use the correct knob adapter to fit your old knob and break the switch stem to the correct length. It will break easilly if you hold it with one pliers and break it with another. Screw the new switch in place with he old screws. At this point, I closed the breakers and tested it. It worked fine. I turned the breakers off again. Buttoned it up and slid the stove back into place. 20 minutes tops. Great product. Good for another forty years.

Turned off power at panellboard. Disconnected mounting hardware from inside oven chamber. Pulled failed heating element with wires attached into the oven chamber. Disconnected wiring and reconnected them to the new heating element. Tightened screws while holding connectors with pliers. Applied electrical tape to connections. Pushed wires back into opening and secured heating element back into place. Restored power nad verifed proper operation. The other heater purchased will be used when the bake element finally fails,