RC559*01 General Electric Range - Instructions

Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.

It was so easy, we got on the General Electric web site and entered the old model number, found our match and ordered the part. It came 3 days later and it was so easy to remove the old one and install the new one, only two screws to remove. Saved a lot of money by doing it ourselves! Thank goodness for websites like this!!

The repair was a bit difficult because the screws connecting the wires to the element were small threaded bolts and no slot for a screw driver. They were very difficult to break loose - that's when we used the Liquid Wrench and waited. Other than that, the repair went smoothly. It is better to remove the oven door, if you can, otherwise the rear of the oven is not as accessible. It is also a good time to change the light bulb.

I unplugged the stove, unscrewed two nuts, pulled the two wires forwrd and disconnected them. Attached the wires to the new burner and it works fine!

Element was in two pieces so it was obviously dead. I disconnected the stove from the power, I undid the two screws at the back of the oven and gently pulled the element out. There was enough slack to reach and pull the connectors apart. Done. I ordered the part from "PartSelect" and it arrived the next day. Unfortunately I ordered the element with "Screw" convectors as opposed to "push on" connectors. I bought a couple of connectors and cut off the original connectors from the wires in the oven and replaced them making absolutely sure they were well and truly tight. Two screws cam with the element from "PartsSelect (Thankfully). Connected the wires and screwed it back into place. Stood clear, plugged it in and turned it on to max. Worked just fine, Thanks

I removed both screws to remove lower element, and measured it prior to ordering the replacement.
Then in a few days it arrived, and I installed it. The new element had small bolts rather than screws the original used to attach both wires. A flashlight was necessary in locating an keeping an eye on the wire ends, to keep them from being pulled inside the back cover, as the bolts were attached.

Following common sense, I removed the broken bake element by first removing two retaining screws and then disconnecting the element from the internal wires using a nut driver for both operations. The new element was installed in reverse order first using a screwdriver to attach the element to the internal wires (the new element had embedded threaded openings and came with two new machine screws) and then using the nut driver to secure the element to the oven wall.

I located and removed 2 sets of hex-head screws under the front lip of the cooktop, then lifted the entire cooktop to access the burner controls. Removed the wires and taped them, and took out the old control after removing 2 phillips head screws. Installed replacement part easily. Only tricky part is that the various shaft adapters don't quite work with my knob. I'll fix it completely with a bit of epoxy and the adapters they sent.

I removed the two screws that hold the element to the back of the oven. Pulling the element out of the back, I removed the screws which connect the element to the electrical wiring. I placed the new element into position and reconnected the wiring. I made sure that the wiring and connectors were insulated with shrink wrap plastic, then pushed the new element into place. Connecting the two screws to the back of the oven completed the job. Toughest part, kneeling on my knees -- the part supplied fit like a glove and it works wonderfully well. Hint: measure the connectors to the wiring so that you order the correct length! (I didn't and had to reorder, but I am very happy with PartSelect.)

First of all the part came super fast with standard delivery. We threw the circuit switch to the oven. We used a nut driver to remove the nuts holding the element in place and then gently pulled it out of the hole so we could see the terminals. Using a screwdriver we loosened the screws that hold the terminals to the power lines. We put the old element aside and laid the new element on the floor of the oven. Using a screwdriver and the original screws we attached the terminals of the new element to the power lines. Using a screwdriver and the new screws provided we attached the bracket to the back of the oven. Turned on the power; used the oven. Works perfectly.

Replacement element also failed to heat.

Possible that the problem is with the stove itself, not with the surface element.

Same as you described

Use nut driver to take off shield. Pull out element to expose element and wire connections. Use nut driver to take off the 2 little screws. Remember what side is positive(red wire) and what side is negative(black wire). Put shield over the 2 wire and reconnect to element. Will need a standard screwdriver for the new screws. Slide wires into insulation and put back on shield.

Replaced lower element

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Attached the wires to the new heating element, screwed it back in. That's it.
I was glad they had the part for such an old oven.