ECBP82WK2WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Installed the new brackets at the back of the drawer with the 2 screws provided. The new rear mount design is much better than than the old side mount.

The only hard thing was contorting my old beat up body and joints long enuff to reconnect the 2 wires and oven heat sensor and put in 6 screws with a 1/4" nut driver. I did remover the oven door and that made it much easier for me.

First I cut the circuit at the breaker, and then pulled the range from wall to access the access panel. This top panel was held with 4 screws and removable with a standard phillips head screwdriver.

I then removed the 5 wire-crimped fasteners from the defective surface burner switch. (I first labeled these wires to ensure correct placement to the new switch). There were an additional two screws behind the corresponding knob that needed to be removed in order to completely remove the old switch.

The new switch was installed in reverse order to the steps indicated above (two screws behind knob, 5 wire-crimped fasteners, 4 screws to panel). Range was pushed back into position and breaker turned on.

Ordered the bake element part from partselect.com. When the part arrived I removed the 2 6mm screws from the element, I used two clips to hold the wires in place so that they didn't receed back into the stove. I installed the bake element, installed the two scews ans was done. It took all of 10minutes.

Lily in Florida

popped out the remainder of old lens, then pushed in new ones and slipped on plugs.

I started with changing the bulb. I removed the small bracket that holds the glass cover over the bulb unscrewed the bulb and reversed to replace the bulb. To replace the control board I removed the top plate on the back of my stove took the small screw's out of the control panel and unplugged the wire's. Plugged the wire's into the right spots on the new control board and put it back together.

Easy

My son did it by using pliers. He took out the screws that held the element in and pulled it out and used the pliers to pull the wires out of the old one and snapped the new one in . put it back together. about 5 minutes.

Take off 6 screws of back cover of the range, unplug the white wire. Go to the inside of oven, pull out racks. At the top of the oven is your Broiler element, in the center you will see a rod sticking out with one screw holding it in place. Take out screw and pull temperature sensor out toward you. Reverse steps to put it back together.

Very easy. Unpluged range from outlet, took two screws from the front under side of the range top, raised cook top up, took off four wires from burner, removed two screws than holds burner on cook top, replaced with new burner, installed two screws that hold burner in place, installed the four wires to burner, lowered cook top back into place replaced two screws that hold cook top down, pluged back into outlet. DONE!

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

This one is simple. unscrew a portion of the door, install the spacer and screw back together. Worked well.

Becuase of the fire we had used a chemical based fire extinguisher, which made a real mess in the whole main floor of the house. I removed the oven from the house and used a leaf blower to get rid of all the white chemical powder (like a baking soda of sorts). Once that issue was done, I removed the part in less than 5 minutes. Two screws to remove it and then unpluged the two wire clips from the back of the stove under the shield which also had 6 screws to remove. It took only 3 days to have a new one delivered and I installed it in less than 5 minutes. The oven works fine now. It took much longer to clean the house than fix the oven.

We ordered the part from PartSelect and received it the next day. Didn't even have to move the range out from the wall. Just unscrewed the two screws on the back wall of the stove that hold the bake element in place with a socket wrench, then pulled the old bake element and wires out about 2-3 inches so we could disconnect the old bake unit. The element was kind of hard to pull out, but after you pull it from the wires, just plug in the new bake unit, push the wires back in and put the screws back in. Oven was up and working again!

First of all, there are FOUR panes of glass on the oven door and two different sizes. Make sure you're ordering the right pane. We initially got the wrong one and had to return/reorder.

Took door off hinges and set on table. Removed almost all screws. Two at the top are very long and almost spring loaded -- this was helpful when putting it back together.
When removing the layers, keep track of what/where screws are placed. Some are star-hole-head, some are hex-head (socket). Work slowly and carefully so as not to break additional panes of glass. Leave plenty of room in your workspace to set items aside while you get to the innermost part of the door.

For this part #, it's deep in the door layers and surrounded by fiberglass. Wear gloves so you're not itchy later. This part acts as a double-pane with a narrow aluminum frame around the two pieces of glass. Be careful not to bend the frame when removing the broken piece. One corner of the frame also has a hook-n-hole closure. Take care to not bend the hook too much.

We wiped all the glass pieces off to get all fingerprints, smudges, and baked-on foods removed. Then we put the pieces/parts back -- a lot like a puzzle. Had the oven back up and running with no problems. It may take two people to get the door back on the hinges just because of the weight and awkward position they need to clamp back together.