JB390G4H1 General Electric Range - Instructions

Unplugged the elements and removed the corroded drip pans and replaced them with the the new ones, which fit perfectly.

turn off electricity to stove and simply remove the screws from the heating element and put new element back in place .put screws in and turn power back on and test.

I looked on Youtube for a how to video. It was accurate but the screws in my oven were NOT phillips head screws, they turned out to be sheet metal screws. I used pliers at first which was a PAIN but then I borrowed a socket wrench from the neighbor that was MUCH better!! I had wanted to do it myself to prove to my husband and son that I could but I ended up needing their help because the screws were so tight.... But we did the repair ourselves!!!

Unplugged the range, took old elements out, put new ones in. Couldn't have been easier and for the total cost of about $60; I have a working oven again. A LOT cheaper than a new $600 range!!

Took off the door, took out the two screws in the back of the element. Then pulled the element forward, then removed the two wires. Then put it all back together with the new element.

I simply replaced the female part of the plug that the coil plugs in to. I figured this would do the job. I replaced the part,

Turned off power to the oven at the circuit breaker. Pulled the old heating element from the back lower wall of the oven. Noted the position of the wires (right terminal attached to the red wire, left to the black wire). Removed small bolts holding the element to the wires using pliers. Attached the new element using screw driver. New element came with screws, not bolts. Pushed the element back into place and restored power. Tested to make sure everything worked. Everything works and I ran an oven cleaning cycle. Noticed that indicator light above the temperature selctor is always on now even when oven is in the OFF position. Not sure if that's related to the change or to the oven cleaning cycle I ran. In any case, oven seems to work normally.

Pulled range out from the wall. Unplugged cord from outlet. Removed old knob, removed two phillips screws a very top of chrome trim, removed six nut-head screws from back to reveal the switches...removed two set screws from the front at knob base. Visually checked to make sure wiring post of new switch matched the old one. There was enough slack in the wiring to remove one wire at a time and connect it to the new switch in its appropriate place. Put new switch in the panel and secured with the two set screws. Select the bushing that would take up the slack for the old knob to fit on the new switch stem. Held new stem at its base with pliers and used another pair of pliers to snap the stem at appropriate length. (The new stem could not be broken off short enough to have the knob as flush to the panel as the other knobs...this was the only negative factor in the repair) Replaced nut-head screws and phillips screws. I was especially pleased with the quick delivery of the part...even without special shipping rates I received the part in less than 18 hours from the time I ordered it online!

The very first thing we did was turned the circuit breaker off and unplugged the range.
My husband removed the back panel and unplugged the switch. Drew a diaghram of the color coded wires. When we received the new one he broke the extension bar off to fit the knob, plugged it in and we were back in business. It was very easy for my husband as he is a mechanic (millwright). However, if you are mechanically inclined it is an easy fix.

First shut off power to the range in the electrical
breaker box (its the 220 breaker) as marked.
Remove the oven door ( open part way and lift up) the
door will come off.
Remove the 2 screws that the element is attached to the
back of the oven wall. Pull element out part way and
disconnect the 2 wires. Take out element.
The new element had different connections so I cut off
the clips stripped the wires and attached to the element
connection . The element had connections that this was
possible. Push wires back into oven wall and install the
new element with the 2 screws that were removed. You
could also put on clips to the 2 wires that attach to the
element if so desired. (Eye hole clips.)

Unscrewed the element from the oven,disconnected the two screws for the electrical and reverse the procedure to install new element. Took all of about 10 minutes.

I couldn't find the oven model number so I just looked at the shapes from partselect.com. This would have been fine except I didn't know my Kenmore model had 4" leads so the one I ordered were only 2". I had to return the first element but the process to do this was FAST and EASY. With help I found the model number and had the correct part shipped. It took less than 5 minutes to install. It took longer to mop and clean behind the oven that hadn't seen the light of day in 10 years.

Using a nut driver, I removed the two screws holding the baking element to the firewall of the oven. I then pulled the baking element out exposing the two wires connected to it. I then used the same nutdriver to remove the nuts and detached the old element. I then connected the new element to the wires, pushed the wires inside the firewall and reattached the element to the firewall of the oven.
The time it took was literally a few minutes. Works like a new oven!

took cover off back of stove. Removed two screws and wires that were attached to the element. Removed old element and installed new element. An easy repair.

It was so simple, I turned off the breker to the oven, unscrewed two screws holding in the element, pulled out until the wire connetion was exposed. I unscrewed those two screws, then placed the replacement part, put the two screws on, pushed back the wiring and insulation.Final step was screwing two screws to hold the unit to the oven back. So simple! The part was ordered regular mail and still was here in 2 days. Will recommend to friends for sure!