JTP86CFC General Electric Range - Instructions

pull out stove, unbolt old temp sensor inside stove with 1/4 nutdriver, go to back of stove and take off cover and unhook sensor and hook up new one, put all back together and slide stove back in place.

First I removed the 4 screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches. I removed the sensor and disconnected the connector.

First and most important trun off curcit breaker. Use 1/4 inch but driver to remove socket (2) screws. Remove ground and hot wire clips from old socket, replace on new socket. Screw back into oven ceiling and turn on power. Reset clock and your are done. Very simple.

Unscrewed numerous screws holding the "body/shell" to the microwave. Removed body. I then unplugged top door switch, replaced it with new one, and "tested" the new one. I fixed our $400 convection micro with an $18 switch. NICE!

Replaced old with new.

slid the old ones out and slid the new ones in. done

Ordered the part and pressed it on spindle.

I checked various sites on the net and decided that the temperature sensor was the problem. The GE price for the replacement part was about $105, most of the other sites offered the sensor in the $70 range. PartSelect $12.95 When the part arrived, I removed a small self taping screw, pulled the high temperature wire connector into the oven space, disconnected the quick disconnect fitting, attached the new temperature sensor, pushed the connecting wire into its hole, replaced the screw and that was it. I probably saved about $200 in parts and labor over what a local repairman would have charged. Oh yes!! I first disconnected the power at the breaker box. Very important.

Removed the outer cover to access the door switches. Turns out there were three switches, but I determined that only two were bad. When the small colored tab on the switch is pushed in it should make a clicking sound. The two bad switches had no resistance and did not make any noise when pressed. Removing the switch is relatively easy, you simply pull it away from a couple small tabs holding them in place. After reconnecting the wire leads, insert back into the holding tabs and install the cover.

I took the cabinet off and saw where the switch had been burnt. So I remove it and order another one from your company. And I put new clips on it with heat shrinks. We might get another 30 years out it, Although I'm 80 years old.

Followed the online videos to enter the cavity to the switch holder. Noticed right away the dreaded capacitor was in back right corner behind where the touch pad had been removed. I isolated the capacitor with an old computer mouse pad for extra safety. Took some manipulations to get the switch mount out from behind the wire bundles. Once out front, easy to use small flat blade screwdriver to release each switch and replace with matching new switch. Only one switch was bad but replaced all three. Back together and working great.

Turned off the oven power at the breaker. Removed the oven door by opening it all the way down. Flip the two metal tabs, one on each side, so the door releases. I used a flathead screwdriver to do it. Close door almost all the way and lift up to remove. Once the door is removed, there are two screws in the back of the oven connected to the heating element. Unscrew both screws. Gently pull out the heating element from the back wall. There are two terminals connected to wire clips holding the wiring in the back. disconnect, both terminals from the wire clips. Be careful not to pull on the wire or pull out from the wall too far. Connect to the new heating element to the same wire clips gently push it back into the wall reattached the two screws, reattached the door and turn on the breaker and test the heating element. I used YouTube to figure out how to disconnect and reconnect the door so that is an option.

Purchased a new roller guide, simply dropped it in to place and the problem was solved. It took longer to open the box than it took to make the repair. Quick and easy.

I have a double oven and coincidently I had to replace the two Oven Light Assemblies.
I am really glad about your web site because once I got the number from my oven model you guys were the first ones that came up. Thanks to your prompt and reliable service my oven is back to its original state.

Jose Figueroa

Simply removed the cracked Guide Roller after finding that there was no way to repair the piece. Upon receipt of the part via FedEx it was a simple matter putting the new part in place. Things work fine.