JGBP85WEJW General Electric Range - Instructions

Pretty easy in all. The connector from the igniter to teh power sorce didn't quite fit. Ijust cut off the new one and spliced the old one back on. Probably could have made my life easier if I took off the oven door, but it just meant I had to reach more. Works great, and other the connector, which I didn't really think would fit a 15 year old oven,it was very easy/.

This would've been an easy repair, but I ran into some complications.

First I removed the thumb screws holding the bottom oven pan, took the pan out, and also took the bottom panel off the front of the oven.

This gives you access to the burner assembly. I disconnected the wire to the ignitor. I then removed one screw at the front, and two in the back of the burner assembly with a 1/4 socket wrench.

The burner assembly came out. I tested the ignitor for continutiy with a multimeter to ensure this was the faulty part. There was not continuity, so I knew the ignitor needed to be replaced.

This was when I tried to unscrew the ignitor, and both screws stripped their threads on the burner mounting plate. Complication #1. Seems with age, that mounting plate tightened up on the screws.

I cut the screw heads off with a dremel and cutting wheel to get them out. I'm glad I did this before ordering the new part because I needed to order the replacement screws too.

The burner mounting plate for the ignitor needed to be re-tapped to get the new screws in with a 10-32 tap and power drill.

Once the mounting plate was properly rethreaded, I attached the new ignitor, and reattached the burner assembly to the oven.

When trying to connect the wires, the plastic connectors wouldn't click together. They matched up fine, but wouldn't go all the way in. Complication #2. While the plastic connectors were properly mated, the inside pins were both female. The old ignitor had male pins on it, the new one had female pins. So I removed the burner assembly again, cut off the new ignitor connector and spliced in the old ignitor connector with the included porcelain wire nuts.

I put the oven back together again, fired it up, and it worked great.

opened back panel. noted location of colored wires. disconnected wires & removed module. attache wires to new module & attached module to panel. closed up back panel. tested all burners

Just put it on. Quite proud of myself for figuring out what and how to get the part however! The website was very helpful.

Once we knew which part was needed, we went on to your site and orded the part. It was delivered the next day! Partselect.com is bookmarked on every computer in our household, including mobiles. It's great to know there is such a fantastic resource for do-it-youselfers. It took 5 minutes to remove the old igniter and plug in the new. A screwdriver is the only tool required.

I removed the door and the racks, and the flame spreader. I removed the 4"X6" shield loosen the circular flap to plug the new igniter to the recepticle. Turn the oven on to check the operation and if it comes on, button it back up. remember open the oven door approx 3" and pull upwords to remove the door. I would say 90% of the time the igniter is the problem.

Removed bottom shelf from inside oven, turned it obj and replaced the oven deflector with only a screwdriver

Took longer to open the box.

1. Unplug from electrical outlet. 2. Turn off gas valve. 3. Remove oven door. 4. Remove bottom drawer. 5. Remove oven shelves. 6. Remove oven floor, take out the two screws at the rear. 7. Unplug the igniter from the wire harness, you can reach it from where you removed the drawer. 8. Remove the igniter, by unscrewing the two bolts using your nut driver. 9. Replace with new igniter. 10. Put everything back together, starting with # 9 and work your way to #1.

repair was easy enough, but the kit came with female ends and needed mail ends. I had to splice old connecters to new igniter

I located the igniter module by following the wires to the top/rear of the stove. Removed two sheet metal guards and marked and numbered each electrical wire before removing them. Reasembled in reverse order. Wife thinks I'm a genius!

I followed the video instructions on the site. I unplugged the power supply and turned off the gas supply. I then removed the plate out of the bottom of the oven to get to the igniter. Then I removed the screws and unplugged the igniter to remove the old part. I had to purchase two porcelain wire nuts because the new part connection did not match up with the old connection. The repairs were quite simple and I had my oven back and working in no time. I am glad I read the comments from others because I thought it was my gas control valve, but they were right it was my igniter. This saved me time and money.

Unplugged the Range and removed the two screws holding down the cook top. You do not need to remove the vent chamber at the rear of the range since the top lifts up about 4 inches. This should be enough room to get your hand onto the plug going to the door switch. Pull off the plug and remove the swich. Pop in the new one, put on the plug, reinstall the two screws and you are done!

Read the thread on "burnt smell" and DO NOT assume it is a burned out element. Follow your nose!!

Took top off, removed wires from old spark module and put them on new one. Very easy and quick, works very well now.

Replaced old with new.