JBP87G05 General Electric Range - Instructions

Turned power off to oven. Unscrewed back plate exposing wires connected to heating element. It was difficult to unscrew the connections between them as it was hard to reach in because the oven door was in the way, but i finally succeeded. Unscrewed the bracket holding the burned out element and then attached the wires to the new element. Attached the bracket and I turned on the power. I then tested the oven and it worked.

Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.

The removal- replacement problem basically involves the shortness of the connector wires to the terminals. Because the burner is close to the top there is little room to use a screwdriver. The old unit used metal screws. The new came with open threaded holes in the terminals with two threaded screws. Used a small 1/4" ratchet which worked OK, but had to carefully bend the ends of the terminals to allow me to lower the element to an angle that would all room for ratchet action. (All design engineers should first have to work in maintenance before going to drawing board!)

S. Cooke, Houston Texas

The replacement was straightforward, six screws. Instructions were provided with the part along with the necessary screws to fit the new element terminals.
Open the breaker, verify power is off, remove the old burner. Install the new burner and mounting bracket. Restore power and test. In and out in less then thirty minutes.

After an exhaustive search of local oven dealers and big box stores, I could not find a broiler element for my aged GE stove. I did find it online at Parts Select for about 1/3 the cost from GE online parts.

Replacement was easy-- just as described in posts for this part. The 'hardest' job was getting the screws started that hold the wires to the element-- small screws and small holes-- but just required some patience. A simple, inexpensive repair that avoided my having to replace the entire stove. Thanks!

I located and removed 2 sets of hex-head screws under the front lip of the cooktop, then lifted the entire cooktop to access the burner controls. Removed the wires and taped them, and took out the old control after removing 2 phillips head screws. Installed replacement part easily. Only tricky part is that the various shaft adapters don't quite work with my knob. I'll fix it completely with a bit of epoxy and the adapters they sent.

Removed 4 screws and removed the old element and replaced in the reverse order.

Replaced damaged element exercising the care suggested in repair comments by previous customers. Old unit had screws connecting the broiler element to the stove's electrical supply wires, which were difficult to remove due to old age. Just took a little extra care to ensure that supply wires were not damaged during disconnect and after reconnecting the new element the broiler tested OK. It is once again broiling steak to perfection

I shut down the electric to the oven at the circuit breaker. Then i loosened the mounting screws and pulled the element from the back wall of oven. Then i disconnected the two leads to the element with a phillips screwdriver and removed element. Installation was done in reverse order.

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

less than 15 minutes R2 the part, ops ck'd good. 4ea 1/4" screw/nuts, they didn't fight me...

extremelyquick delivery on standard mail and so easy to install and really the lowest price. so happywith this company

The stove was new when we moved into our new home but opted to leave "our" stove in the basement until the one that came with the house had seen it's better days. The removal of the original element required the use an allen type of driver - it's removal was simple and the new element popped-into place without a problem and I refastened with the screws that came with the new element. The part arrived from PartSelect right on time, in good condition, and I would definitely do business with PartSelect again when I need to! My only complaint has nothing to do with PartSelect, it is the angle one must assume to refasten the part into place! Thank you, and I'll be back!

Removed 3 screws from cover {center of back side of oven}, removed 2 screws from wires connected to element, then removed 2 screws mounting element
{inside oven}, pulled it & replaced it.

Removed old, burned out element, and replaced with a new element. The worst part of the entire job was getting the oven door assembled back on to the oven.