J797E1 General Electric Range - Instructions

I am left handed which sometime presents things in a aweward way. My greatest task was finding the right position and being able to hold the leads while trying to connect them. So I got a pillow and positioned myself and got into the oven and was able to do the job from there. After doing so, it took about 10 minutes to do the replacement.

It would have been easy, but the screws that came with the replacement burner were too long for the ceramic insulator to fit over. Had to grind down the screws fro 3/8" long to 1/4" long. After that, piece of cake.

I flipped breaker off for electic and confirmed that power to the stove was off. I removed the 2 screws holding the control unit in place. Carefully removed all knobs and buttons and pryed the cover for the control unit off. I then removed old part, removed the wired and clipped wires to the new unit. Put cover back on - has some difficulty getting the panel back in place to line up the screws. But after a couple of attempts, was able to line up unit and put screws in place to secure. Replaced all knobs. Turn breaker back on and cooked lunch. Very easy job. Most difficult part was getting panel back in position. I would watch alignment more carefully before I removed in next time. Easy home repair for Women...not sure about my man?

Good directions

The original controls were different for the small burners and the large burners. The replacement part fits all. Before removing wires, pay attention to writing on new and old control and replace 1 at a time. The hardest part was being sure to cut the knob stem to the correct length. Control works well.

First I turned the power to the stove off at the breaker box. Next I removed the two screws holding the old element in place against the back wall of the oven. I gently pulled the element forward. I wound a couple lengths of spare colored wire around the two electrical wires before disconnecting the retainer screws at their connection points. This insured that the electric wires would not fall back inside and behind the firewall. I then disconnected the screws holding the electrical wires to the broiler element. I removed the element from the oven and discarded it. I then connected the screws through wires and the connecting points of the new element. I removed the spare wires hold the electrical wires. I positioned the broiler element in place and screwed in the retainer screws securing it in place. I turned the breaker switch to the "on" position and tested the new broiler element. It tested fine. Job done in 15 to 20 minutes. An able bodied person could do it in less than 10 I'm sure.

The broil element was easy to replace. Start by either unplugging the unit from the wall or turning the circuit breaker off. I started by removing the two screws that hold it in the back. There was a support bar attached to the top with two screws also. After removing all screws, gently pull the element forward exposing the two wires. Make note of which wire goes to which terminal. I also clipped a clothes pin to each wire to prevent them from falling back through the hole. Disconnect the two wires and reconnect to the new element. Reattach all screws and you're done.

Just re-connected the electrical. Was the exact/correct replacement part. Repair successful. Thanks.

I diagnosed the problem as a burned out element. Received the part the next day (very quick service) My husband replaced the old element with the new. My broiler still doesn't work. I don't blame the company, my diagnoses was wrong. I have called the appliance repairman and it will probably be an expensive fix.

I thought it would be a simple matter of removing the inside glass (4 screws) and replacing the gasket, but it turns out that on this model I had to start on the outside, remove the drawer, then remove the front door cover, then undo a screw which held the inside two-tier glass in place, THEN I could remove the four screws and the interior panel which holds the gasket in place. THIS IS A TWO PERSON JOB unless you choose to use masking tape to hold the exterior door cover in place while removing/replacing the many screws which hold it on. WHILE REPLACING THE INTERIOR COVER WHICH HOLDS THE GASKET IN PLACE, YOU MUST PERIODICALLY STRETCH IT HERE AND THERE TO GET THE "SNAKE" TO EXTEND THE ENTIRE WAY AND TO SEAL TIGHTLY.

Even though my sons offered to do the repair, I opted to hire an appliance technician to do it and it took him at least 45 mins. with his experience and tools. apparently the inside wall wires were shorter and more difficult to access and grip and I'm glad I did. It should last another 20 years and I'll be dead!

First turn off breakers. Undo all screws and remove burner. Easy to see how to replace old part with new. Self explanatory if you follow what you have taken apart.

Just unpluged the old one and detached the wires. put the new one in and used a socket wrench to rewire it. . Very easy and was shipped in perfect condition and easy to replace. Very pleased.It fit perfect and oven works just fine. Thank you so much for the service which was very speedy. It was packed to perfection.

Removed old element, checked continuity and element was bad, Fit new element and everything was good. No problem except my arms were not long enough!! Repairs took about 15 minutes.

(Turn off the Power) Pull stove out, remove the 2 screws that holds switch in place, remove one wire at a time and install on new switch. Slip switch in replace 2 screws. Snap off about 3/4 of the shaft cut down plastic insert for knob, install knob turn on power and it works.