ABS300J1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

ordered part shut electricity off took out 2 screws took of connectors put in new element replaced connectors replaced screws turn on elec started cooking

Pull stove out from the wall unplug it remove the old switches and replaced them withe new one. they work just fine.

After searching the internet for a cause for the burner not getting hot it looked as though it was the burner switch. I ordered the switch and installed it. Behold it still did not work. I then ordered the burner, installed it and it worked. So I had a 50/50 chance as to which part was the problem. This was my first stove repair and I found it easy to do. Finding something to hold up the ceramic cooktop took the most time. I cut a piece of wood to prop it up while I replaced the burner.

I couldn't tell which one work best till I installed 2 units and I liked the other bracket for stability.The wired were too long and there is not a given way to strap them and keep them away from the heat source.

I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections periodically as to avoid another situation like this .

Watched video,and used it as guideline.Biggest problem was removing tape from old wires.

nothing to it.

I needed to replace all stovetop bowls and found all after-market bowls "just a little off" effecting how flat the burner rested so called PartSelect's hotline and was assured that if I were using the actual model number found on the stove the parts would definitely fit and not almost fit, guaranteed, and they did!

Dropped in new bowls. I was surprised how in-expensive new ones were.

Moved stove out away from wall .Unplugged stove, turned gas off. Unit is a dual fuel convection. Burners are gas, oven is electric. Removed 4 screws from back shield and exposed the 2 electrical leads connected to broiler element. Disconnected the electrical .Inside oven I removed the front bracket holding element in place, then removed the 2 1/4 screws in the back holding element in place. placed new element in and finger tightened the 2 screws, next I installed the front bracket and finger tightened those. I then snugged the rear screws in followed by the front. I went to the back and reconnected the 2 electrical leads. Replaced back shield and plugged unit in and turned gas back on.Caution; Make sure your gas line is flexible before moving your stove out to far. Repair was very easy

Turn off power to oven. Removed the rack. used a 1/4" nut driver and removed the two screws holding the element to back of oven. Slid the element out, unhook the two wires clipped to the end of the element. Replaced it with the new element, installing it in reverse. Took about 15 min. Rememer to turn off power to oven before attempting to work on it.

Removed old socket, I had replaced with a aftermarket that really did not work well. When I recieved the terminal block kit from your company it was the proper kit. Service was better than expected, part and price was great and it took very little time ti install. Thank you.

The repair was somewhat easy. The replacement elements are pushon type. The only thing is that the G.E. Hotpoint wire on the right side of the bake element is short. Be extra careful to not have it go back into the back oven wall or you will have to take the back cover plate (Pull out the range, remove the back cover using a nut driver or a magnetic tip srewdriver with the bit removed works[Wires are right there]. This is as easy a job as can be.

My oven is wired into the wall so I had to cut the power off at the fuse box. The hardest part was pulling the stove/oven away from the wall to see if it was a simple plug in or wired in. I lifted bottom drawer out so I could get leverage and lifted the entire unit so I could put the front feet on the soft pads. It slid away from the wall easily. I found a socket that fit the screws on the plate holding the broken element and unscrewed it, saving the screws. A gently tug on the element pulled the attached ends through the hole. The tip of the ends were attached to the wall wiring by a small sliding metal clip. I carefully pulled the ends apart. One was hard to get apart to I had to push it with the tip of a knife. Once the old was off the new was super easy to put back on. Side the tips to the clips, screw the plate in place and push the oven back in place. Flip your fuses and turn on the oven. Yeah!

Disconnected the plug from the receptacle; removed the 2 screws holding the element in place at the rear of the oven; removed the support bracket at the front (also 2 screws); removed the panel on the back of the range; pulled the wire clips off the element (had to replace one of them); slid the new element in place; reconnected the wires and fastened the element in place; reattached the support bracket and rear panel ... With the assistance of my wife (extra hands) this was an easy job!