J324*01 General Electric Range - Instructions

The repair was a bit difficult because the screws connecting the wires to the element were small threaded bolts and no slot for a screw driver. They were very difficult to break loose - that's when we used the Liquid Wrench and waited. Other than that, the repair went smoothly. It is better to remove the oven door, if you can, otherwise the rear of the oven is not as accessible. It is also a good time to change the light bulb.

First -- and thank goodness I read some of these stories first or I would have forgotten -- I turned off the circuit breaker to the stove.

I removed the two nut screws holding the element itself to the back of the over. Then I removed two more nut screws holding the element to the electrical wires. (This took some WD-40. The stove is about 25 years old.)

That was about it. Everything lined up perfectly, and there was nothing more to do except reconnect the new element and throw the breaker back on. It works!

I removed both screws to remove lower element, and measured it prior to ordering the replacement.
Then in a few days it arrived, and I installed it. The new element had small bolts rather than screws the original used to attach both wires. A flashlight was necessary in locating an keeping an eye on the wire ends, to keep them from being pulled inside the back cover, as the bolts were attached.

Following common sense, I removed the broken bake element by first removing two retaining screws and then disconnecting the element from the internal wires using a nut driver for both operations. The new element was installed in reverse order first using a screwdriver to attach the element to the internal wires (the new element had embedded threaded openings and came with two new machine screws) and then using the nut driver to secure the element to the oven wall.

I was a little leary of using a website to order a part to fix my oven, but we got the part within a week. It was very easy to install and it works like a charm!

First I turned off the breaker to the stove in the breaker box and then removed the two small screws that hold the element in place. I then carefully pulled the element out about 3 inches and using a 1/4 inch socket, I unscrewed the screws that held the wire on the bake element. There were two wires held in place with 2 small screws. I made sure that when I unhooked the wires they did not pull back into the back wall of the stove. I then removed the old element and put the new one in its place, hooked the two wires back up, pushed it back in place and secured it to the back of the wall of the stove with the other two screws. I then turned the power back on and presto, it worked perfectly. Like new again.
Thanks for everything.

It was so easy, we got on the General Electric web site and entered the old model number, found our match and ordered the part. It came 3 days later and it was so easy to remove the old one and install the new one, only two screws to remove. Saved a lot of money by doing it ourselves! Thank goodness for websites like this!!

I located and removed 2 sets of hex-head screws under the front lip of the cooktop, then lifted the entire cooktop to access the burner controls. Removed the wires and taped them, and took out the old control after removing 2 phillips head screws. Installed replacement part easily. Only tricky part is that the various shaft adapters don't quite work with my knob. I'll fix it completely with a bit of epoxy and the adapters they sent.

Cut the power off to the range, unscrewed the burner from range and pulled off the element and unscrewed the two screws

First , for safety, I flipped breakers to kitchen applicances to cut off the power. Removed the 2 screws that held the old element in place. Pulled it out a couple of inches and disconnected the 2 wires attached to the prongs of the element. Reattached them to the new element, pushed it back in and replaced the screws. Turn power back on and voila! ... was ready to bake again! All this is a matter of 15 mins!

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

I unplugged the stove, unscrewed two nuts, pulled the two wires forwrd and disconnected them. Attached the wires to the new burner and it works fine!

Unscrewed four screws, removed old element, replaced with new part, done!

I took the old element out, compared it to the pictures of the GE replacement elements, identified the correct one and ordered. It came I installed it in 15 minutes and it works just right. I was unable to determine the model number of my old oven so the pictures of replacement elements were invaluable. Thanks for making it so easy to avoid calling a repairman.

followed instruction that came with the parts. Looks great and was easy to install.