JBV42G404 General Electric Range - Instructions

Simply unplug old unit and plug in the new. Easy

I turned off the circut breaker and disconnected the old terminal block - some difficulty removing the wires because of corrsion - I was able to reconnect the wires to the new block quickly and I was done - fast and easy - so happy to have found the part so easily with your program. Thank you

After receiving parts, was getting rims unpackaged and removing the old rims, then and installing the new ones. Extremely easy to do. No tools needed

Partselect had the right part, clearly indicated in the diagrams and menus. Shipped quickly. Easy to use web site.

I logged into GE's website, put in my stovetop's requirements for size and type of trim rings, and was taken to partselect's site where I found what I needed. I ordered it and it came in less than a week!

it was hard to figure out the instructions from A switch to B switch to my switch. The first switch was no good the second one was good. prayer book didn't hurt.thank

I have had to replace this unit once before. It was very obvious which terminal had burned off. Removed the total front panel. Removed the timer and replaced wires from one unit to the other. Also had to strip off one wire connection and replaced it .

I flipped breaker off for electic and confirmed that power to the stove was off. I removed the 2 screws holding the control unit in place. Carefully removed all knobs and buttons and pryed the cover for the control unit off. I then removed old part, removed the wired and clipped wires to the new unit. Put cover back on - has some difficulty getting the panel back in place to line up the screws. But after a couple of attempts, was able to line up unit and put screws in place to secure. Replaced all knobs. Turn breaker back on and cooked lunch. Very easy job. Most difficult part was getting panel back in position. I would watch alignment more carefully before I removed in next time. Easy home repair for Women...not sure about my man?

lift up to 45 degree angle and pull towards you. This one went bad and the contacts welded themselves together. Took some shifting and tugging to free it. Normally, they slide in and out effortlessly, like any plug.

Removed 3 lower screws holding the upper oven inside door panel to the door frame. There is enough flexibility in the panel to coax it away from the frame at least an inch. Removed the old nut plate from inside the door and replaced it with the new one. Screwed in the retention pin and 2 washers while holding the nut in place. Assembled the 3 lower screws to complete the assembly.

I had an appliance guy replace a burner(Calrod unit)on my 47 year-old GE range, but he didn't tell me that the original trim ring wouldn't fit. I decided to look up on PartSelect to see if I could get one to fit the new burner, and I did! Fits perfectly......no tools needed.

Worked, don't have to replace an old GE combination range "Microwave Cooking Center" when the surface units rusted out.

1) Took photo of original wiring behind original clock. 2) Marked up wiring instructions for new clock with wire colors. 3) Marked wire colors next to posts on new clock. 4) Removed old clock and its metal mounting bracket. 5) Installed new clock onto old mounting bracket.PROBLEM: The holes in the glass facade of oven are shifted about 1/4" off from the pushbuttons on the new clock. 6) Remove bracket and enlarged holes by 1/4" sideways. This includes shifting the holes for the oven light pushbutton switches, and the four "racetrack" holes where the bracket attaches to the oven. Plug wires into new clock, using extender wires provided as needed. Labelled extender wires with their "colors". POWER UP. The clock works, and the "Timed Bake" works. However, the Self-Cleaning of the oven cannot be started, because the latch level cannot be moved to the right (locked ) position. This leaves us unsatisfied, as restoration of Self-Cleaning was the reason we decided to replace the oven clock.

I called the local GE appliance & sales place, informed them that a friend of mine had found the part on Partselect.com, after they told me the part was no longer made, could not be found. My friend that found Partselect was going to install it for me himself but then I decided it might be best to have the dealer do it, in case something went wrong. I can not buy another stove because they no longer make the upper/lower stove like this model, I would have to rip out my cabinets! plus I do not have the money they are asking for a new stove.. Besides the fact that I LIKE this setup! 27 yrs. old, top oven was always 50 degrees off, but I know it, so not a big deal..

Took oven door apart to get to gasket. . . Took about an hour or less. Then I basically cleaned the entire over door while I waited for the part to come. When the new gasket came I started to put it back on. I used springed type clothes pins to hold the gasket in place on the middle part of the door which hold the glass. As I put on the out part of the oven door over the middle part of the oven door, I carefully took the pins off as I gradually slipped the 2 parts of oven door back together. After the gaskets were carefully adjusted to it's proper position, then I put the nut screw back in through the gasket holes to hold the 2 oven door parts back together. Then, I finally put the rest of the door back together. This took about an hour also. Not to bad when you have to do this by your selves. This is the second time I've put in a new oven gasket. The oven is 28 years old, so the gaskets last me about 14 years each time. We hope to keep the oven a few more year before we buy a new glass top style stove. Hope this was helpfull to all you diy's !!! Don