FEF329EQB Frigidaire Range - Instructions

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

I took the brads that were left from the old gasket off with needle nose pliers. Then I put the new one on. It was very easy.

first i remove cover, then i unscrew defective part, remove wires. i then install new part & replace marked wires . I then replace cover, turn on oven and holla! my oven is working.

I couldn't unscrew the leveling foot because it was rusted and corroded. The bracket holding it was easy to remove so I took the bracket with the corroded foot off and replaced it with the new foot and bracket. Very simple. I made sure I oiled it so it wouldn't rust again.

made a drawing as to where the wires were to placed on the new switch,took longer to do this than finding right tools. Important safety tip,always pull off the required breaker!!!

Watched the repair video on your web site. Used the video as a step by step guide in the actual repair.

2 1/4 inch screws and 2 blade connectors fir the power. Took me longer to find my nutdriver than the repair.

Turned off power at the circuit box. After locating 1/4" nut driver (the hardest part of the repair)I removed the oven racks. Took the opportunity to wipe out oven. Removed the two screws holding the element in place.Pulled element out gently to expose the connections. Wiggled the terminal connector off the terminal on element. Gave the wire a little bend to keep it from pulling back into frame. Repeated process on other side. Removed new element from wrapper. Placed element on oven floor, reattached terminals--making sure they were on snuggly--carefully slid terminal ends back though slots in oven body. Lined up brackets, reinstalled screws, replaced racks and turned power back on. Turned oven on it worked. Made cookies! Very easy repair.

The front glides easily snap into a hole on the sides of the range. The rear glides easily snap onto the sides of the lower rear of the drawer.

Watch video. This oven had the connecters that popped off and on which made this task easy.

I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.

purchased a square bit and removed screws easily and disconnected it from the wiring and pushed in the new element secured screw and it was back to baking.

Discovered that that oven control panel was to blame for both heating elements to stop working at the same time. Went online and ordered the part which was delivered in 2 days. Installation very basic and included the following: 1)Pulled out stove and un-plugged stove 2)Removed top rear panel 3) Removed 4 screws of the damaged control panel (leaving all wires plugged in) 4)Installed new control panel and connected wires one by one to make sure done correctly 5) Replaced rear panel plugged in stove testing oven.

The elements tested good. Figured it was the electronic clock timer/control using the sites repair guidance and ordered the part. The remove and replace was very easy. Pulled the stove out, removed back panel and removal and replacement of the part is pretty basic. Be sure and unplug the appliance first. Everything works fine now.

Unplug the stove or disconnect at the breaker. Open the oven and remove the bake racks. Using a nut driver (or Phillips Screwdriver) remove the screws (one per side) that secure the bake element. Place them in a safe/secure place outside of the oven. Carefully pull straight back on the element until about 3 inches of the wire, that connects to the element, is exposed. Carefully unplug the wire from each element (make sure that the wire does not pull back into the oven insulation. I placed a small metal clip on each wire). Remove the old element and plug the new one in. Put everything back in the exact same way you took the old one out. Power the oven up and preheat your oven. Monitor this - should be no problem at all. Very simple process. My first attempt at this and it was very easy.