FGS379DCA Frigidaire Range - Instructions

First unplugged the oven from the wall and then I removed the bottom floor of the oven by removing the two screws at the back. Then I removed the heat shield over the burner by remove the two screws at the front of the oven and removed the nut in the middle of the heat shield that was hold the shield to the burner. I removed the two screws on the flat oven igniter and cut the two wires on the igniter and pulled the two wires through the open in the bottom oven from the drawer opening. Mounted the new igniter and feed the two wire from the igniter through the open in the bottom of the oven, Stripped the two wires that I cut from the oven, twisted the new wires to the old, and put the wire nuts on. Last I put everything back together and baked dinner. Took ten about minutes and saved a thousand dollars because I was going to buy a new oven. Thanks, Partselect.

Unplugged the appl. I removed the bottom of the oven. Disconnected the two wires. Removed two screws that hold the element in place. Replaced it. And put everything back together. Since this element goes bad about every year an a half, I keep one on hand all the time.

replaced it

Just "locked" the hinges, pulled the door off. Removed the broken glass for the door. Switched the handle from the old door to the new one. thPut it back on e hinges.....viola!! new oven door glass!

I cut the wires from the old igniter near where it said to. I then connected the new wires to the old ones, put it back on, the way I remembered it being assembled, but still won't heat up. I tried to get an enlarged detail of where I was working on, but I couldn't enlarge it from your website. My friend, who knows about electricity, worked on it for several hours last pm(He's an electrician), but could not figure it out with the scamatic that was on the range, because he was not there when I disassembled it,

The philip head screws holding the igniters were frozen. Had to cut off heads with dremel cut off tool, then grabed residual screw with vice gripp pliers. Removed screws and mounted new ignighters. Used new hex head bolts. Attached wires per instruction sheet and tested unit. It worked.

Replacing the faulty ignitor would have been simple enough if my arms were a foot longer and the bolts that secured the old ignitor had not been baked on.

With an ample dose of WD40 and some Vise Grips I finally got them broke loose. An Ohm meter can tell you pretty quickly if the old ignitor is bad. My old ignitor measured more than 1 mega ohm while the new ignitor read only about 346 ohms.

had the gas company do a free inspection.he told me the igniters go bad over time,so i went online with my model #and found a symptom/remedy page at part select.it said replacing the igniter fixed the problem 100% of the time.that gave me confidence and i ordered it,installed it and fixed it for $53.00(the gasman said most plces charged $250-300 to fix it.i was proud of myself-1st ever oven repair=great job!!! thanks.

1st took out switch from thermostat unit, located right on the other side of where the temperature knob is located (that controls cooking temp of the oven). Had to lift up range cover to get to the thermostat. Tested this switch with a meter and found it was OK. This made me suspect the igniter, so I ordered one.
To install I first unplugged oven (to prevent getting shocked) then took off the drawer on the bottom compartment (push in on tabs on rails until they release). Then take out two screws holding igniter. Mark wires with tape so you know which one goes to the upper part of the igniter and which one goes to the lower part. Then cut wires as close to the body of the igniter as you can so that you have plenty of wire to work with. Then hold igniter in about the place it will be mounted and mark the wires on the new igniter where you want to cut them. Leave a little extra so you have wire at a length that is easier to work with. Scrape off 3/8 inch of insulation off the end of each wire and connect the wires with wire nuts. Re-mount igniter. Put drawer back in. Plug oven back in and try the oven. I hope it works. Mine did thanks to God. Take care.

1. Unplugged power cord.
2. Removed warming drawer and oven shelves and lower plate
3. Removed old wirenuts from back of warming draw space (awkward to reach in to the back).
4. Removed 2 screws holding ignitor in oven - screws in poor shape and were not reuseable.
5. Found next size up sheetmetal screws and installed new ignitor.
6. Ran wires down adjacent to gas feed into warming drawer space.
7. Connected with wirenuts supplied with ignitor.
8. Replaced everything.
9. Tested oven and ate some tasty blueberry muffins.

I removed the oven bottom which was held by two large head long screws. I then removed the heat deflector using a small socket. The only difficult part was when I went to replace the igniter. The screws that were holding it in place stripped I guess do to the amount of heat they were continually subject too. I had to apply pressure to the igniter bracket while removing the screw using a small socket. Even with that they did not come out easily. If I had not had trouble removing the screws the repair probably would have taken 15 min.

took the old igniter out and swapped the connectors onto the new one. Kept the connectors close to the connector end to prevent them from being to close to the ovens heat.

I just sent in a generic description of my problem and a couple of ideas on what it might be. Within 2 days an online repair person answered me back with the solution. I ordered the part and 2 days later I was back in business and baking cookies.

Removed 2 screws to oven bottom
Remove one nut that holds gas rail deflector
Removed 2 screws that held Igniterto the fuel rail
Cut 2 wires to the Igniter
attached 2 wires from new Igniter using ceramic wire nuts (Suplied with new part)
Install same as removal

Removed the two screws, took out the old one and replaced the new one. It was very easy and the oven works great now. Thanks.