FFEF3051TSB Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Ensured breaker was off. My range is hot wired. Removed all cables from old terminal block with nutdriver. Used phillips head screw driver to remove old terminal block from back of range. replaced old terminal block with new one. Re-attached accessory cables to small terminals first, then the main cables to the terminal block using where necessary long nose pliers. It is important to make note of which cables are attached to each terminal of the block, so make a sketch PRIOR to removal. Also be careful how the cables are attached to the block. You are using 10 gauge cable with thick insulation. It is important that when pushing the range back into position the cable does not put too much pressure on the block as it will break it. That's exactly what happened to this last one. It probably cracked under the strain of the pressure of the cable and finally current running through it weakened it to the point where it broke off from the block causing it to short and trip the breaker.

When you order make sure and get a new faceplate also. I didn't realize it was glued on .Whne I pealed it off part of the white stayed on the old control,looks bad but works fine.Unplug Range, Take 4 screws off of top panel on back,I left all wires hooked up and removed 4 more screws holding the control panel in place.I rolled it out of the way put the face plate on the new one and screwed it into place. Then took each wire off one at a time and hooked thenm to the new one. Reattatch the back and test it out..You now have a happy woman.

Statistics said it was the element. I replaced that this did not correct problem. Went with the second statistic and it was correct. I showed the video to my tenant and he replaced it and called me in a few minutes saying it worked fine. Look at the video then it will be easy for you. The only thing in the video that was not clear is that you have to peel the sticker off of the front of the old clock and attach it to the new one. Everything else is exactly like it says.

First, I disconnected the electrical power by pulling apart the plug behind the range. Next, I removed the screws holding the service plate on back of the top panel.I removed the switch knob by gently pulling it from the stem. Underneath I found 2 screws holding the switch in the panel. I removed these with a phillips screwdriver.I was able to pull the entire switch out to the rear leaving all wires attached.The new switch looked different from the original and the wires were configured differently but the wires were clearly marked. By removing one at a time and placing it on the new switch to the corresponding marking,it was a simple matter to wire the switch.I reinstalled the switch in the panel,put back in the screws to hold the switch, slid the knob back on the stem, reinstalled the rear panel,and plugged the power cord back in.The switch worked perfectly.

A Phillips screwdriver and pliers were all the tools required. At first glance, the physical appearances of the OEM and the replacement were not identical. The slide-on electrical tabs were numbered on each in the same way. Sliding off the connectors and re=connecting them on the same number tab on the new switch was all there was to it.

removed six nutdriver screws and removed rear cover. the only problem i had was the new switch they sent was a little larger then the orig.had to figure out the wires. fit good and works perfect.

Looked up the appliance and the suspect part.(clock/timer). It described the part and what problem it would fix.(no power to oven) Part shipped very fast and installation was quick and easy!!! They even had a installation video!! You can`t get any better than that!!!

I watched the video to make sure I understood what I needed to do. I did just as the video right down to installing the new one before replacing the wires, which was the hardest part the connectors were on tight. Replaced all screws tested to see if oven worked which it did. Thanks for the video.

Took back cover off 2 screws held the switch then moved wires one at a time from old switch to the new one put everything back plugged in stove everything worked

Checked the burner and no power to heat the burner. removed the old switch and put on the new one.

Followed video instructions on your web site.Removing one wire at a time as suggested simplified installation.Somehow i lost burner lens indicator.Ordered it from your website cost $3.84 plus shipping recieved in one day. GREAT SERVICE

Confirm the problem and check electrical diagram to see if there was any other circuit in the syatem that could cause the burner to stay on , remove back cover and inspect switch contacts, found them burnt , look up parts for the model number and replace it.

I am an electrician so I had no problem identifying wire and connecting them properly. However there were no instructions provided with the part and the configuration of the new switch was different than the the old one. I doubt if a DIY individual would have been capable of handling this task. Also there were no safety warning with respect to electrical repairs, which is a must today.

Cut the range power. Removed the top rear panel. Removed the two burner switch screws. Pulled one wire at a time off the old switch and put it on the new switch. Since the terminal location did not match, it was critical to notice the terminal designation on the old and match it to the new switch. Ex., H1 to H1; H2 to H2. Voila! It worked the first time.

The infinite switch arrived promptly and while not a perfect match fit the range fine. It took me a few extra minutes to figure out the wiring configuration, but it was fairly easy. I was very pleased with Parts Select's service.