FEF450WCDC Frigidaire Range - Instructions

removed element , cut wires, conected wires,replaced element

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

1. SHUT OFF POWER TO YOUR RANGE! (I flipped the circuit breaker at the box to do this. To be totally safe, you can shut off the power to the whole house.) 2. Remove the oven racks. 3. Undo the two screws (save for step 8) holding the bake element in place. (This took some doing for me, as the screws did not want to come out easily. Maybe use some penetrating oil and be careful not to strip the screws.) 4. Gently pull the bake element toward you, exposing the contacts and wires. 5. Remove the wires from the old element's contacts. (Remember which contact 6. Attach the wires to the new element's contacts. 7. CAREFULLY push the wires back into the wall of the oven. (Pay attention to the insulation. Make sure that some insulation is near the wall.) 8. Fasten element to wall of oven with screws you saved from step 2.

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....

It was really easy just unplugged it took off the back cover changed the part out put back cover on plugged it in and the elements were working great!

Broil worked on the stove, however in bake mode, the oven did not make temperature. Turned off the stove, unscrewed and inspected coil. I noted there was a section of the coil that had a "corroded" appearance. (it was evidence of the coil being burned out). Checked with a ($9.00) voltmeter, showed infinite resistance. Found the original envelop for the stove taped to the back of the oven from 1973. It has wiring diagram with schematic and noted the coil was 3000 W, 19 ohms.

Bottom Line found comparable replacement online and tested resistance, measure dimensions of the old coil, matched with Watt rating, replaced, tested installed and works great, Oven has been in use for a couple weeks now. New stove would have been around $500.00. Not to mention some remodel work, as the house is old and stove is a built in.

Coil was $60.00 and should buy the time I need until I remodel the entire kitchen.

I determined that the failure was due to age and wear on the element. Therefore I thought it wise to replace all four burners as a preventative measure. First unplug from power! Replacing the burners was plug-and-play simple. Replacing the switch was easy: Remove the back panel, pull the control knob and remove the two screws securing the switch. Move the terminals to the new switch (one at a time) and mount it with the two screws and replace the back panel. NOTE: The foot bracket on the large burners were about 1/32" too stout and the burner element would not seat in the ring properly. I made a slight adjustment with my grinder and everything fits perfectly.

Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)

Took out the bad element and replaced it with the new element in less than 5 minutes, worked perfect, thanks

Generally straight forward repair with the most difficulty coming from the screws holding the element in place being rusted. Took some wd40 and some snub-nosed pliers to get them out. The wire connections on the back of the element are pretty self explanatory. Lightbulb was an easy change though the bulb connection had also rusted a bit and required some pliers to remove.

I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.

searched on the computer for the name and part number that was damaged, found that it was the bake element so i ordered it with part select.com. when it arriver three days later (as expected) i disconnected the gas and electric to the range and simply removed the old element with a phillips screw driver. installed the new element, hooked the gas and electric back up and began cooking again...

thanks partselect..

Put a new one in.

Just pulled the old cook top burner out and put the new one in .it took about 1 1/2 minutes