FEFB89ECF Frigidaire Range - Instructions

A Phillips screwdriver and pliers were all the tools required. At first glance, the physical appearances of the OEM and the replacement were not identical. The slide-on electrical tabs were numbered on each in the same way. Sliding off the connectors and re=connecting them on the same number tab on the new switch was all there was to it.

I actually watched Youtube while I was changing it. This video was not actually the same make up of my oven, even though the I typed in the model number. I manage to figure it any with the steps anyway. It was harder then I expected but not horrible. I think I did pretty well for a women. Patti

Talked to someone who knows , DX'd the potential problem,looked for the part on your very user friendly website and your DX was exactly what my oven was doing, when the Thermo-Sensor arrived, I unplugged the oven, removed the metal back, took out the faulty Sensor, replaced it very easy then realized the plug was different, so called a friend who knows how to Solder and 2 hrs, later, my oven was repaired and I began baking an Apple pie to repay a friends kindness The pie was perfectly baked , my friend was happy and so am I ,the baker, just before the holidays Thank you Parts Select for helpful DX and speedy delivery - seems you saved Christmas for me.

Removed outer glass first ,then worked my way thru to inner glass..

I was unable to loosen the screws myself so I called my friends husband to help me. We watched the video together and followed the instructions. The door in the video was a bit different than mine but this repair was easy.

I followed directions for replacement of the glass from the web. Replacement was simple and easy.

I followed the Parts Select Video that showed replacing an identical switch. Mine were another brand & style with different color wires. I took a picture of 1 to keep track of the wiring and removed it. I saw that the terminals were marked P, H1, H2, L1, & L2 so I put the wire from the same terminal onto the Parts Select switches & they work just fine now. The parts I got from you are heavier and a much better quality than the original equipment. I would also like to say that I was amazed at how fast this order was shipped, and the washer pump was a piece of cake thanks to your video.

I read other experiences on line and determined that it was either the element of the control switch. So I decided to order the control. When deciding I had removed the upper back sheild and put it back on. Subsequently a couple of days later there were popping noises culminating in a flash and the stove went 'dark'. I figured that I had pinched a wire when I put the upper shield back on. I removed the shield and looked for black 'short' marks. None were visible. I went to the electric panel and tried to reset the 60 amp breaker. It wouldn't reset and momentarily the lights dimmed. Uh-oh! Went back to stove and opened area where the cord connects to the stove. Direct short- a lose terminal block bolt had welded itself to the chassis! I redid all connections and lined inside of stove back with duct tape- also redid the connections with bolts, nuts and lockwashers covered each with electrical tape. Now reconnecting electric I put the new switch in. Removed the knob from the front and started to transfer the wires from the back. This was a little confusing because the control I received looked different from the one in the stove. After some checking I looked closely at the terminals on each control and they had tiny number/letters on them like H1, Li, H2 etc. So I just transferred H1 0n one cntrol switch to H1 on the new switch- L1 to L1 and so on. Put it all back together, turned on power and everything is working great.

I had order a replacement baking element to start, without trouble shooting the problem. When I had replaced the new bake element, set the oven to bake @ 350*F & watch for the baking element to heat up,it did not heat up. I waited for the oven to cool down,pulled the unit out & unpluged it from the receptacle.I removed the back cover,then I used my volt/ohm meter to check for contunity from the switch to both side of the element. Measured the ohms of the 3 bake elements,all good. Verfied that diodes were ok & there was no open resistors on the circuit board.No proble found. Put the back cover on, pluged the unit into the electrical outlet, pushed the unit back in placed, set the oven to bake @ 350*F, problem solved. My wife have bake several cakes & I cooked Sunday dinner using the oven. The real problem may have been an open circuit between the bottom bake elament & the switch. The repair was completed on 12/02/2012.

Removed oven door. Removed screws from bottom of door as well as handle screws. Remove inner panel to expose glass. Replaced glass panel and reverse steps. Very easy.

Really straightforward - just took door off of the hinges and worked taking it apart until I got to the front glass that was cracked. Took it out and put the new piece in and reversed the process. Really easy and I got to clean each piece on the way back in to get rid of some spills.

Initially we realized there was a problem while cooking with the large eyes and we began hearing an electrical short behind the control switch. I unplugged the power from the oven/cooktop and removed the back panel where I could visually see soot on the switches where it was shorted. Careful while choosing your part from the diagram on Partselect.com. For the model FEF336ECJ, atleast for my oven, the eye switches were reversed and I ordered the small eye's switches! Luckily they have an outstanding customer support and immediately mailed out the new parts and a label to send the wrong parts back. Changing the parts out was very simple. Pull the oven out and UNPLUG IT from any electrical outlet. Remove the back panel. Double check from the label on the front of the control panel that you are working with the correct switch, and before removing the current switch, remove the wires one by one and place them on the new part to make sure you don't misplace these wires. Once the wires are connected to the new part, pull the plastic knob off of the old switch to reveal the screws on front of the panel. Place the new switch where the old one came from and fasten the screws back in place. Replace the knob, replace the back panel(for safety) and test the new switch before you push the oven back into place. If you can turn a screw driver, move the oven, and unplug the power, this easy do it yourself repair will save you possibly hundreds by not calling a repair/handyman who would absolutely love you to pay out the nose for such an easy task.

Removed power plug from outlet. Removed metal racks. Used 1/4" nut driver to remove screws. Carefully pulled element straight foreword. After wires were exposed they were carefully removed. Made sure wires stayed outside mounting hole. Put new element in made sure wires were secured to new element. Carefully push back on element to get wires in place. Put screws in element. Start one screw then the other. Then tighten both screws. Plug power cord back into wall" or turn circuit breaker on if you used that option. Turn dial to bake element on and check for prerogative operation.

I looked at video and followed the instructions from the man in the video. I pulled out range and then unplugged range from electrical outlet. I removed screws from back and took back off. I then took the two screws out from front of switch. I pulled switch out and then removed one of the wires off and placed it in the same place on the new switch. I did same on the other two wires. I then put switch back in place and tighten the two screws on front. I replaced the back on the range. I plugged range back into the receptacle, pushed range back in place. I put control knob on and then turned it on. The eye worked fine. Very easy!

removed six screws on back panel and two holding switch on front panel. pulled wire from switch and placed it on new switch,did same with next four wires. put back panel on .DONE works fine