FGFB74BJBA Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Unplug range, remove oven racks, remove 2 screws at the rear of oven bottom sheet metal panel. Lift the back of the panel and slide to the rear a little , then remove panel. Remove nut on top of heat shield and remove shield.. Open broiler draw slightly Note wire connections to gas valve. Remove Philips head screw from sheet metal guard bottom left rear to access wire connection. remove 2 hex head screws the hold igniter in place and install new igniter. remove spade connectors from gas valve and connect spade connectors from new igniter. , remove molex connector from bottom left rear and connect one from new igniter..Install shield in left rear bottom. install heat shield over burner and install nut. Install sheet metal panel in bottom of oven and 2 rear screws.. install oven racks and plug range back in. set clock and test your repair.

order pcs fit perfect.

The stove was older so the burner was hard to get out. The small screw heads broke off, so I had to carefully center punch and drill out the screw bodies. The igniter screw was also frozen in the pot metal burner. That screw requied drilling and tapping with the installation of a new 6-32 screw. Once the burner was refurbished, the igniter mounted easily. Afte attaching the gas line and igniter wire, the burner worked great.

Removed the one remaining drawer guide and stared at it for 10 minutes trying to understand where it came from and how it worked. Looked it up on partselect.com. While there was no part number, the detailed photo on your web site was enought to assure me that you had the correct part. Ordered them in a few moments and three days later I had the parts. The hardest part of the job was trying to understand how to install the widgets. After 20 minutes to crawling around in the stove's inards, I finally got the "aha" and the drawer on this antique stove was finished. Thanks! Couldn't have done it without you.

I removed the broiler burner assembly held in by 5 screws across the inside top of the oven, as I removed the assembly the igniter slid out from the back of the oven and was attached to the assembly with a cannon plug, I disconnected the cannon plug and removed the whole assembly out of the oven and replaced the igniter which was attached by two screws and reassembled in the oven. Where I live in remote Alaska calling a repair technician is not an option, either figure it out or have a new appliance barged in.

removed two screws disconnected inlet pipe and two outlet pipes, removed regulator. Replaced with new regulator. performed leak Test.

Overlay replacement is easy; 1st remove two screws that hold panel to top of stove (philips screwdriver) and lift up off of lip at very top, 2nd remove two screws that hold control to panel (nutdriver or square drive screwdriver), 3rd peel old overlay from control panel face (make sure you get any & all little bits so new overlay sits flush), 4th peel backing from overlay and position over control panel (peel protective film from face of overlay as well), 5th reposition control panel and reinstall two screws removed in step two above, lastly reposition top panel on stove and reinstall the two screws removed in step one above.
Drawer glide just snaps into place on the lower rear corners of drawer, then you slide drawer back into place.

thanks to you 'r assistsnce First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires, and changing the regulator was just as easy.

no need to remover burner. Lift top up use a 1x4x5" to hold top up. Use short #2 screw driver remove screw and replace with new igniter

Slide out the old; slide in the new!

I removed the back panel, about 6 screws, then found the probe which was attached by 2 screws. Unscrewed them and unplugged it. Plugged the new one in and replaced all the screws. The oven works like a charm now! No more F3 errors!

1) Turn off the gas and disconnect the power

2) Remove oven door. There requires that you remove the two square drive (SD) bolts on the inside, partially close the door and lift it off the hinges.

3) Remove the grills.

4) At the back remove the rear shield (aluminum panel held by 2 SD sheet metal screws.

5) this exposes the broiler igniter and its two wires. If its been replaced in past, there should be two porcelain screw-on wire connectors. Undo the connectors by turning them counter-clockwise. With a volt-ohmmeter, measure the resistance across the igniter. If its open circuited, its broken. If not, then its in the circuit board, and this help stop here. If this is the original igniter, it ends in a plastic connector. Disconnect by pulling it apart from its mating plug and again, check the continuity of the igniter. If its defective, reconnect the connector and cut each wire on the igniter side. Strip back about 1/2 inch of insulation on each lead.

6) inside the oven, using the SD driver, remove the 4 screw securing the broiler burner from the roof of the oven. The burner can now be removed, pulling the burner away from the gas jet on the right.

7) The igniter is now exposed and can be remove by removing the two SD drive screws.

8) Replace with the new igniter, being careful not to touch the black element, and feeding the wires though the rear oven wall.

9)Reverse the above dissembly procedure.

10) Broil the sausages.

It was great. We ordered the part, it was shipped the next day and I had it the day after that. It was easy to install and the stove has worked perfect since. Color us happy!

Removed screws. Unplugged temp sensor. Put screws back in. So easy a caveman could do it.

New part arrived, opened pkg. , Pulled drawer out. . . Snapped in new parts. . . . Done!! Saved myself $100. 00.