LFEF3019MWC Frigidaire Range - Instructions

replaced it

Called fridgidaire and they told me the a F31 code means my temperature sensor is not working.
So I ordered one online. I installed it and I still have F31 code and still won't work. So what now? Do I trust them to tell me another part?

1. Order part
2. Remove 2 top screws holding vent cover and carefully remove
cover
3. Open door all the way and lift, door will come of the microwave
4. Set door on a flat surface facing down
5. You will need a flat screwdriver,carefully set the screwdriver
between the door and the black plastic and pry out completely
6. Remove screws holding handle. (This will be a good time to clean
the inside of this door)
7. Attach new handle tighten screws
8. Put black plastic back in door and press on all around make sure
that is set in place
9. Re-install door and vent.

Really a no brainer, but I do have to say that PartSelect customer service is excellent. My part was located and on it's way within a day and arrived a couple of days later.

Easy as 1-2-3

Ensured breaker was off. My range is hot wired. Removed all cables from old terminal block with nutdriver. Used phillips head screw driver to remove old terminal block from back of range. replaced old terminal block with new one. Re-attached accessory cables to small terminals first, then the main cables to the terminal block using where necessary long nose pliers. It is important to make note of which cables are attached to each terminal of the block, so make a sketch PRIOR to removal. Also be careful how the cables are attached to the block. You are using 10 gauge cable with thick insulation. It is important that when pushing the range back into position the cable does not put too much pressure on the block as it will break it. That's exactly what happened to this last one. It probably cracked under the strain of the pressure of the cable and finally current running through it weakened it to the point where it broke off from the block causing it to short and trip the breaker.

Took door apart, went online to partselect, ordered new glass, and put it back together. Oven looks like new. Makes sense to order the isolation as well when you do the repair

Remove back cover located and replace probe by unplugging wire and removing one 1/4 screw with nut driver replace probe by plugging one wire and one screw. Remove the timer by unplugging two plugs and removing four 1/4 screws remove decal from old timer and place it on the new one replace the timer by replacing four screws plug in the wires replace the cover you're done. (Note) be sure to unplug the main power to the oven before you start.

I followed directions for replacement of the glass from the web. Replacement was simple and easy.

UNPLUG OVEN, removed back panel with screw driver, disconnected two wiring harnesses from clock/timer, removed old clock/timer with screw driver, carefully peel old face panel off clock/timer and stick on new part, install new part with screws hook up wiring harness that is OK---Next part requires some electrical tools, skills. The wiring harness for the oven part had a burned connector to the oven element, snip the burned connector off and replace with a new connector, this part will now be separate from original wiring harness. Replace rest of wiring harness, then plug in new connecter, secure this wire to the others with electrical tape or cable tie to ensure it stays put. Replace back panel. (The other option is to completely replace wiring harness.)

Removed oven door. Removed screws from bottom of door as well as handle screws. Remove inner panel to expose glass. Replaced glass panel and reverse steps. Very easy.

Removed screws surrounding the door glass and since it was the outer glass there wasn't any other removal required.

Unscrewed the oven bottom plate and removed. Put new one in place and screwed it in place. Stove looks brand new again and am so happy with the results.The part we received was a perfect match and arrived in a few days!

Initially we realized there was a problem while cooking with the large eyes and we began hearing an electrical short behind the control switch. I unplugged the power from the oven/cooktop and removed the back panel where I could visually see soot on the switches where it was shorted. Careful while choosing your part from the diagram on Partselect.com. For the model FEF336ECJ, atleast for my oven, the eye switches were reversed and I ordered the small eye's switches! Luckily they have an outstanding customer support and immediately mailed out the new parts and a label to send the wrong parts back. Changing the parts out was very simple. Pull the oven out and UNPLUG IT from any electrical outlet. Remove the back panel. Double check from the label on the front of the control panel that you are working with the correct switch, and before removing the current switch, remove the wires one by one and place them on the new part to make sure you don't misplace these wires. Once the wires are connected to the new part, pull the plastic knob off of the old switch to reveal the screws on front of the panel. Place the new switch where the old one came from and fasten the screws back in place. Replace the knob, replace the back panel(for safety) and test the new switch before you push the oven back into place. If you can turn a screw driver, move the oven, and unplug the power, this easy do it yourself repair will save you possibly hundreds by not calling a repair/handyman who would absolutely love you to pay out the nose for such an easy task.

I unplugged the stove. Then I lifted up the top of the stove to expose the burners. I unscrewed the necessary screws and plugs that attached the old burner to the stove. Then I simply put the new one back in it's place. The stove was one of those flat burner stoves, and I was a little concerned that I would be able to do it. The repair man wanted to charge me $150.00 for labor.